448 Miles today!
Dateline: San Luis Potosí/Puebla
It’s about 10:30 AM. I’m barreling down the autopista at 110. The scenery passes by in a blur of agave, cactus, and open space. My little truck is purring like a kitten. The stereo is blasting a pirated CD of narcocorridos.
¡Traigo pechera, también un cuerno!
¡Traigo uniforme, no soy gobierno!
!Traigo charola para la plaza para que sepan,
¡Soy Pistoleroooooo!*
The federales are far behind me, and I’m singing along, pretending I’m a narcotrafficante, feared by all, giving my inner bad-boy free rein as I head south. ¡Viva México, Cabrones!
Of course it’s a bit of an illusion. I’m driving 110, yes, but kilometers per hour, about 69 MPH, and just at the speed limit. Audis, Infinitis, and VWs hurtle by at a good 20-40 MPH faster than I’m going, and I keep to the slow lane for fear of being rear ended. Suddenly I see a cop, and I instinctively slow down to about 60, well below the limit. The guy in the red Audi behind me roars by at about 90 MPH, and the cop appears not to blink an eye. I guess they’ve got bigger fish to fry.
Uh….I think I’ve already got plans for dinner. Try Steve Cotton.
I’ve just left San Luis Potosí, on my way south. Yesterday I didn’t get far, about 117 miles. But I left late, and there really was no good place to stop beyond San Luis Potosí. So I headed into SLP Centro, and parked my car along the Calzada de Guadalupe, which was mentioned in the writeup I did on SLP here and here.
It was surprisingly easy to find my way around. F and I visited almost exactly a year ago, and that, along with the fact that I wrote my post as a guided tour around the city made me feel like I really knew where I was going. As it turned out, across the street from where I parked, was the mercado. And in the mercado, was a small restaurant serving comida corrida, mariscos or seafood in this case. Though that sounds a bit risky, it was off-hours and there was still a good crowd. It was also run by an nice, older couple who were entertaining their daughter, son-in-law, and 9-month-old grandson. How could such people give me anything bad? Well, they didn’t, and the food was wonderful, one of the best shrimp soups I’ve ever had, along with fantastic tostadas de camarón.
From there, I strolled up Calle Zaragoza, the pedestrian street that leads to the Plaza de las Armas. There, I hung out and took a few photos, ate an ice cream, and then sought a hotel on my phone, using the WiFi in the square. Though I would have liked to stay somewhere in the Centro Historico, practicality won out, and I ended up staying in the One Hotel, right off the giant glorieta (rotary/traffic circle/massive overpass thingy). This put me on the highway to Querétaro for a straight shot out of town in the morning. Since F and I had spent a few days here a year ago, I didn’t feel the need to really spend any time, and I prepared for an early departure.
Sunset in San Luis Potosí
As I write, I’m sitting in The Hotel Imperial, 3 blocks off the Zócalo in Puebla. It’s in a very old building, but it’s VERY clean, has free parking, and at 400 pesos a night ($31 USD), the price can’t be beat. Did I mention that the location is fantastic? When you travel in México, if you just show up at the front desk, it’s quite common for them to offer to show you the room. I had already scoped out this hotel via Expedia, but thought I’d show up in person and try to negotiate a better deal in cash. Once they showed me the room, and told me they were running a special that was lower than Expedia’s price, I said “Sold!” and went to fetch my truck.
Puebla will be interesting. There’s a lot to see here, and I’m already impressed by the plaza, the buildings, and the general vibe. I’ll leave you with one shot right off the Zócalo before I post this. I’m about to drop dead with hunger. Saludos!
At the edge of Puebla’s Zócalo
Jump to the next post from this trip.
* Lyrics from “Soy Pistolero“ by Los Buitres de Culiacán, Sinaloa. Don’t try Google Translate on this; the result is completely ridiculous. Here’s a rough (non-poetic) translation. I’ve got a bulletproof vest and an ak-47. I’ve got a uniform, but I’m not with the government. I’ve got a badge for the smuggling route, so they know I’m a gunman.
El Gringo Suelto 
Puebla: ciudad de los angeles… and all things delicious. Everyone who praises the cuisine of this state is right-on… the monjas who created the recipes knew their stuff. The city is also delightful architecturally. So glad you had a good time…
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Hi Joanna, I will have VERY fond memories of Puebla. Thanks for commenting. Saludos.
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You made me remember a quick visit to Puebla, a good many years ago, in the company of a group of people who then used to work at Periodico Reforma. I remember how impressed I was when I entered the magnificent Cathedral and admired its huge organ, the ancient, beautiful flooring, the richly ornamented altar, and the preciously carved seating. I stood in awe, unable to utter any word, trying to grasp all that beauty and store it in my memory. How I love the churches in Central and Southern Mexico — the next time I go to a Cathedral I want to be left alone as long as I want and stay inside sitting with my eyes closed, feeling.
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Hola Tino. I agree with you. There are some amazing churches here, and sometimes I just go in to sit and meditate a bit. Have you seen the Templo de Santo Domingo? I went yesterday, and it’s got the most amazing gilt work I’ve seen anywhere. I will post some pictures on my next post. Thanks for commenting. Saludos y abrazos!
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In Oaxaca? Yes, I’ve been there too, and it was another amazing experience. I wrote a nice post about my trip to Oaxaca back in 2010, I think. Muchos saludos, ya estoy ansioso por leer la siguiente entrega de tu crónica de viaje. Abrazo.
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No, I mean the Templo de Santo Domingo here in Puebla. Y gracias por tu comentario. He tenido unas aventuras que te cuento después.
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oh, and the photo of sunset at SLP…..Very Edward Goree and the opening credits of PBS Mystery Theatre. I say that one should be for sale, it’s so moody.
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Hey Dana! If you want, I’ll email you a full-resolution copy, and you can print yourself one at Costco, which has the best deal on large-format prints I know of. Thanks for the kind words. Saludos.
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I love it that you’re bombing down the motorway listening to narcocorridos!
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I’m trying to make this trip as authentically Mexican as possible, LOL. Besides, they are a guilty pleasure for me. Saludos!
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We always enjoy Puebla. The centro is made for walking with lots of sidewalk coffee shops to sit and people watch. The views of the nearby smoldering volcano are also very photo worthy. I never met a mole I liked, like you say, they usually taste over cooked but otherwise, the food in Puebla is fantastic.
Give a good critique of John and Anita’s camper, we may venture there ourselves one day as I don’t think there are many RV parks in Xico.
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Hola Croft! I’m still hanging around my hotel room, LOL. But I am really looking forward to walking around. So far the Centro looks enchanting. AS for RVing, sometimes it must be tough just to find a bit of level ground, no? After now having driven 1,500-odd miles, I’m amazed you can drive an RV in Mexico and still retain your sanity. Kudos to you! Saludos.
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You are so close to our casa in Xico (I think 90 miles or so over the hill). We will be there on Sunday night – come and visit next week. I know an even cheaper motel – a Lance camper in our yard – we’ll keep a light on for you 😉
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Hey John! Did you get my e-mail? I’d love to. I think I’m going to be here for a while, and then if I leave “too soon,” I’ll go to Veracruz first, then swing by your place. Saludos and thanks for the wonderful offer.
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I did get your email – just wanted to emphasize the invitation 😉 Hope to see you there. We seldom make our first date of departure – however since we prefer to travel on Sundays – we will probably make the date 😉
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I totally get the “not making the first date of departure,” LOL… I didn’t get out of Zacatecas until after 2:00 PM, despite plans to get on the road “fairly early,” LOL…
Thanks again; I look forward to meeting you both.
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Bad boys, whatcha want
Watcha want, whatcha gonna do?
When sheriff John Brown come for you
Tell me whatcha wanna do, whatcha gonna do?
You keep channeling that inner-bad boy out on the road. The Mexican cuota is the perfect place to let your inner Guzman run full throttle.
Already to Puebla? Haven’t been there yet. I am looking forward to your take on the town of the celebrated plains where the Mexicans clobbered the French. Now, that Porfirio Diaz was one bad boy.
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Hey Steve! Thanks for the song. I’m looking forward to seeing Puebla too. After about a half hour in the plaza, I began to wonder why F and I hadn’t come here more than once over the years, especially given its proximity to DF. It still seems a mystery. Saludos.
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I am wondering which way your travels will take you from Puebla. Will you go over the mountains to Veracruz? Down the western slope to the Pacific beaches? Or do you have something else in mind?
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Hi Christine. I’m probably going to head east toward Veracruz. As you can see John Calypso has kindly offered me spot to stay, and I’ve been eager to meet him and Anita for some time. I’ve also wanted to see the port city of Veracruz too. Saludos.
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Oh that sunset picture is stunning! I’m having such fun traveling with you – what a fabulous tour guide you are!
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Thanks, Barbara. I really appreciate your lovely comments. Glad to have you along! Saludos.
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We stayed a couple of nights in the Hotel Imperial, back in 2009. Kim’s description is spot on. We found the place full of Policías Federales. They were billeted there. We had some friendly but short conversations in the elevator and hallways. The Hotel was a bargain, including a manager’s reception hour, a nightly cena, or light supper, and a light breakfast. Nice features, but all skippable as bland and boring.
Our favorite meal was at Tacos Árabes Las Ranas, in the heart of Centro. Our next best meal was at an unnamed puesto in the entrance to the patio of an apartment building. We also walked a long way to the Mercado del Carmen, where we watched cemitas (the Poblana version of the torta sandwich) being made. It was worth the walk to see the assembly line process and to hear the three girl workers pounding milanesas (breaded and fried cutlets) by hand.The resulting cemita was a very impressive gut bomb, but so heavy and picante that I actually couldn’t finish it.
I am no fan of Chiles En Nogada, having had them in various restaurants over central Mexico. They are simply too rich in clashing ingredients, and worst of all, served at (UGH) room temperature.
I haven’t been that impressed by the Mole Poblano I’ve tried, but I didn’t have that at the Hotel Colonial. IMO, the moles of Oaxaca tend to be superior: less sweet.
Yes; we also walked around Centro admiring the Colonial facades of the buildings and went into the grand and gloomy Catedral, and an old theater near our hotel.
Saludos,
Don Cuevas
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Hola Don Cuevas! Wow! Our paths finally cross. At least sort of. I feel better already that I’m staying in a place with your seal of approval. It’s muy Mexicano, but there’s a reason I’m not in France’s wine country. Though I haven’t tried the free food, I imagined it would be as you suggest. I’m a bit wiped out from yesterday’s drive, but otherwise would have tried the breakfast just for the fruit alone. But there’s always tomorrow. And I’ll have to check out the Tacos Árabes. A taco árabe is one made with pita bread instead of a tortilla, right? Thanks for the wonderful comment; I’m sure others will appreciate it too. Saludos!
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Tacos Árabes are similar to tacos al pastor, yet less spicy. They have more onion plus herbs. Think “shawarma”. Here’s a picture of one, estilo “gringa”, with melted cheese.
Saludos,
Don Cuevas
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That looks delicious. I’ll definitely have to try it. Thanks for the tip.
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Puebla is one of the culinary capitals of Mexico. Many of the greatest recipes originated in the convents of the city… not just mole poblano, but also my favorite, chiles en nogada… a poblano pepper stuffed with meat, fruit and nuts, covered with a cream nut sauce and sprinkled with pomegranate seeds. It’s usually served in the late summer and autumn when walnuts are in season. (It’s also the traditional dish for Independence Day). But if you find a restaurant that serves it out of season, give it a try. It is completely unlike our gringo stereotype of Mexican food.
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Hola Bill! I’ve had chiles en nogada many times, and it’s one of my favorite Mexican dishes, though astonishingly filling. As you note, it’s a bit early in the season for it, but I’ll have a look and see if I can find it. Saludos.
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Were I to start over in Mexico, Puebla would be the spot. Wonderful place.
As for buying pirated music CDs, ought not. The business is run by narcos.
If you want to eat the best mole in the world, go to the Hotel Colonial, one block from the Zócalo, and sit in the restaurant for breakfast. There’s an egg dish that comes covered with mole. I don’t recall its specific name, but it’s obvious on the menu. The mole that hotel makes is astoundingly superior to all other mole in Mexico. Trust me on this. Puebla, of course, is known for mole, and the mole in the Hotel Colonial is the Platonic example.
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Hi Felipe. I knew someone would object to the pirated CD. I basically agree with you, BUT. It was a gift, and I already own 5 full-priced CDs from the same group, so I’m not feeling too bad for them. I’ve also always felt that there was a certain irony about authentic narcocorrido CDs anyway. They’re full of songs about killing and dismembering people, shooting at the police, bribing the government, etc. But then they have an FBI warning label promising dire consequences if you dare to make a copy, LOL. As for the mole, I will take your suggestion. While I like mole in theory, I often find that the actual sauce itself seems overcooked. (Which is not exactly a shocker, since that’s the most common sin in Mexican cuisine in general.) And yes, Puebla is famous for livability. I wonder if there’s an expat community here? Saludos.
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of the song, “charola” was the only word i could not translate. i thought it meant some type of “pot like vessel”, but no, a “badge”. Ok.
I think Puebla would be a great city for an americano retirement. Lots to do and see.
Looking forward to your spin thru it.
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Hey Dana! Charola is another word for tray, like something you might serve drinks on. But in Mexico it can also mean a badge, like a policeman’s badge. I have to tell you, I’ve learned a lot of Spanish by learning the lyrics of songs, especially slang. Saludos!
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Puebla is know for good food, isn’t it? A family from Puebla is in my Connecticut neighborhood and their tacos al pastor are the talk of the foodie blogosphere. But keep on your same trajectory and before long you’ll be in the land of panuchos and salbutes. That’s a treat I’ve never seen anywhere in our beloved New England. Keep on truckin, pistolero.
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Hola Lee. I’m a bit ignorant about Puebla’s food reputation. So far I’ve had two decent meals, but nothing special. And I’m not going beyond Mérida. I’m learning that it’s one thing to peruse maps at home in Boston while the snow softly falls, and an entirely different matter to drive endlessly along highways. I’m not regretting a thing, but doing so much driving does take it out of me. Saludos!
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