I am sitting in the open courtyard of the restaurant Amaro in Mérida’s centro. A superb musician is playing the guitar, and singing in a velvet-smooth, very emotive voice. I am wondering why he’s playing here, and not in some studio on his way to selling millions of copies of his next disc. He starts to sing Bésame Mucho, and I shiver. His voice carries me back to Puebla, back to Edgar, and I can’t help thinking of how romantic it would be to have him here with me as I enjoy this wonderful music and a great meal. This is one of the best renditions of Bésame Mucho I’ve ever heard, and I temporarily swoon and imagine myself in Edgar’s arms.
Suddenly the swirl of sensations and recollections is overwhelming. The past few days have literally passed by in a blur. My arrival in Mérida was to the Warmest Welcome on Earth, but little did I know that it would only get better. Joanna and Jorge have literally dropped almost everything to ensure that I have a great time in Mérida. And I have to say, these two are not to be trifled with. When they want something, they get it. As a result I have had the time of my life, though I remain overwhelmed by the hospitality. Joanna and I have hit it off, and she and Jorge have made me feel like a part of the family.
I am lost in recollections of the past few days. Tuesday I arrived. Wednesday, Joanna and her niece show me a bit of the Centro, including Joanna and Jorge’s University. We have lunch at a fantastic Lebanese restaurant. Later Joanna takes me to the Gran Museo del Mundo Maya, which has relocated from its former home in a mansion on the old part of Paseo de Montejo, to a brilliant new building on the Prolongación, the new, northern end of the Paseo. The structure looks a bit like the “Bird’s Nest,” of the 2008 Summer Olympics in Beijing, and the exhibits take us from the extinction of the dinosaurs by the asteroid that hit the Yucatán millions of years ago, though the Spanish conquest, and beyond. At the beginning, there’s a video of dinosaurs and other prehistoric creatures, happily living one more day. And then the meteor strikes, and changes everything. As we pass through the exhibits, my personal favorite is the reconstruction of the facade of Sak Xok Nah, in Ek Balam (a ruin near Valladolid).
Later Joanna has some things to attend to, so I’m left to my own devices for a couple of hours in the Centro. Needless to say, I go out and snap photos. The old buildings fascinate me. The people in the plaza fascinate me. The general vibe fascinates me. People are out, having fun, seeing and being seen. Between the plaza with the people, and the buildings, I’m not sure which fascinates me more. So I see a bit of everything. Next to the cathedral is a public space devoted to art, where there’s an exhibit of Jorge Yazpik’s art. Yazpik is famous for lightly sculpted volcanic rock, and the exhibit blends a bit of the old and the new in a nice enclosed space next to the Cathedral.
Next I snap the inevitable shot of Mérida’s sixteenth century Cathedral of San Ildefonso.
And of course I can’t resist snapping the charming old buildings for which Mérida is famous.
The Plaza Grande is really “Society Central” here in Mérida. Every day there’s a happening scene, with food vendors, musicians, shoe-shine guys, lovers meeting away from their families, and people simply seeing and being seen. On Sundays, the city closes off the streets surrounding the plaza, and there’s a dance in front of city hall. Unlike many plazas in Mexico, Mérida’s Plaza Grande is more of a garden than a formal plaza, with lots of mature trees for shade, hedges, and flowers. For me, it’s a nice change from a place like Mexico City’s Zócalo, which is pure stone, with no shade at all. Of course in Mérida’s heat, an unplanted plaza would be infernal.
In the evening, people dance to a small band. One of the singers announces that one of the couples dancing have been married for forty two years, and sing a tribute to them. We all applauded the longevity of their marriage, and I realize that I’ll never live long enough to be with anyone for forty two years. I wonder if they’re happy together, or have merely stuck it out. I hope they’re happy.
Alas, I have too much to for a single post. Thursday, Joanna and Jorge took me to Uxmal, probably the finest Mayan ruins extant. I am amazed at the quality of the sculptures, the urban design, and sheer size of the site. While the best buildings have been restored to a high level, many remain unrestored, and it’s hard to walk around without imagining that even more amazing treasures lie still undiscovered. Jorge, it turns out, is an expert on a lot of this, and I benefit tremendously from his knowledge. He knows the history of the city, details of the construction, and is quite knowledgeable about the sculptures. On Saturday, he takes me to Mayapán, and as he’s explaining some of the buildings, a small crowd gathers to listen to what he’s saying. Later we go to Acanceh, a small town about a third of the way to Mayapán. Right there in the middle of town sit three, somewhat-intact pyramids, surrounded by colonial Spanish buildings. And on the face of one of them, are enormous, plaster sculptures of Mayan gods, unlike anything I’ve ever seen.
Sunday, Joanna and Jorge host an Easter lunch for their family, and a few friends. I am delighted to join. The conversation flows in Spanish, and I’m amazed I can keep up. Later that day I reflect on my good fortune. Joanna and Jorge have truly taken me into their family, and for that I will remain forever grateful.
After nearly a week here, I can see why Mérida attracts so many foreigners. There’s definitely an international feel to the place. As I walk around I hear French, German, Russian, English and other foreign languages. There are legions of charming old buildings just waiting for someone to fix them up. The fabric of the city, particularly the Centro, is very charming, with plazas and churches every few blocks. People seem friendly, and surprisingly, the heat is not nearly as oppressive as I had feared. And of course there’s a wealth of archaeological treasures within a two hour drive of here.
Tomorrow I will have been here for a week, and I’m tentatively planning to move on. There may be one or two more things to do here, but next I’m hoping to see Izamal, and then perhaps Valladolid. Afterward, I’m hoping to get to Palenque, and San Cristóbal de las Casas. For now, thanks for reading along. Saludos!
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NORM said:
Somethings I like in Yucatan: the little city of Ticul. the salt works on the north coast, and most of all, the little ruins that no one goes to. Go to Mama, it is my favorite backwater Mayan town.
You have wheels, Calakmul and the Reo Bec region are worth the effort. Calakmul and Tikal are the Athens and Sparta of the Mayan lowlands, a thousand year contest fought between two very different city states is their story. I saw a panther stalking a flock of turkeys at Calakmul about ten years ago, the area is a wildlife preserve.
Ek Balam has the best plaster work in Mayaland that I have come across.
If you drive down Palenque way, the ruin Tonina half way between Palenque and San Cristobal is a keeper. Tonina looks to me to have been a regional sport complex, it’s worth a look see.
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Kim G said:
Hi Norm! Thanks for the suggestions. I’m hoping to get to Palenque, and I’m planning to see Ek Balam today or tomorrow. I’ll have to check out Tonina too. Wow! A panther stalking a turkey? That would be an interesting sight. Thanks for commenting and happy travels too!
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imaginemerida said:
What do you think of the traffic there? I have yet to get behind the wheel in Merida. Of course, if you’re used to Boston traffic…
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Kim G said:
Hola Lee, I’ve heard that the traffic is bad. But that said, the little experience I’ve had seems to suggest it isn’t any worse than anywhere else. Of course driving in Mexico isn’t for the faint of heart. And I’ve often thought that driving in Boston would be good practice for Mexico. Saludos!
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Theresa Diaz Gray said:
Kim,
I beg to differ. Are you allowing for the fact that you are here during holy week and Easter week? A great deal of people who would be clogging up the roads and streets are at the beach, clogging up their roads and sidewalks.
It was so nice to meet you.
regards,
Theresa
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Kim G said:
Hi Theresa,
It was great meeting you too. I’ll defer to you on the traffic, then. As noted, I’ve got VERY little experience with it. Lee: ignore everything I wrote about driving here. Saludos! Kim
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Florentino Gutierrez R said:
Hello, stranger! It’s so good to hear from you again. After reading about your days in Merida, I tell myself that I should definitely visit again soon. I’ve been there two times, both for only a few hours. And though I tried to make the most of my time, it’s undeniable that my next visit should be for at least three days. Didn’t you go to Progreso? Not that there’s much to see, but it would be nice to sit on a bench watching the sea, drink a cold beer to think, to remember, and to feel grateful. Un abrazo fuerte, mi amigo.
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William said:
Yes, Tino, you really must go to Mérida… at least 3 days for the city, and at least another 3 days to visit places nearby. ¡Saludos!
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Florentino said:
I sure will!
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Kim G said:
Hola Tino! I have so far been avoiding the beach (as well as the sunny side of the street) since I burn easily. But yes, you should come here for at least a few days. You would love Joanna and Jorge too. Thanks for stopping by and commenting. Saludos!
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Florentino said:
Now that you say it, that’s true…you’ve been avoiding the beach. Send a few pics when you can, ok?
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Kim G said:
Of me at the beach? LOL. I’ll find something to send you. Saludos!
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Barbara said:
I love this. I love everything about it. Everything. I don’t know what I’m most envious of – your adventure overall or of the singular fact you got to meet Joanna and Jorge. I have loved Joanna since swooning over her first book.
Speaking of…you, my dear, might well think of writing one. Your words carry us and introduce us to such delights. You paint beautiful pictures with words as surely as if this blog was a canvas.
I waited eagerly for this last missive and was well rewarded.
Once again bravo, and as always muchas gracias.
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Kim G said:
Hi Barbara! Book? LOL. You all will have already read it before it goes to press. But I do deeply appreciate the sentiment. Joanna has also been on me to turn this into a book. Frankly, it’s kind of stunning. I’ve never thought of my “lil ole adventure” as something other people would like to read about. But I’m happy y’all are enjoying reading about it. And yes, I feel EXTREMELY fortunate to be able to have such an adventure. Saludos and thanks for your kind comment.
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babsofsanmiguel said:
I’m SO glad you’ve had a wonderful time. How great to meet people who live there and who have been so gracious! I, had the exact opposite experience, and because of your post think I need to give Merida another chance! Someday…….Do try to get to Vallodolid. I loved it and stayed in such a sweet little hotel right on the plaza. Didn’t get to Uxmal, sadly.
If and when you get to San Cristobal, and the outlying villages, I’ll be interested in hearing your opinions. I have the name of the best guide there I’ve ever had anywhere in the world, if you want me to send you his name and phone #. He’s extremely knowledgeable.
Have fun! Sounds like you are!
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Kim G said:
Hi Barbara, well in one sense Mérida is like everywhere else in Mexico. I’m meeting wonderful people and having an amazing time. But the flipness of that answer aside, the truth is that there is a tight and very nice expat community here, if my experiences with a handful of people aside from Joanna and Jorge mean anything. So yes, give Mérida another chance. I think you’ll like it. As for San Cristóbal, I hope to make it. Saludos and thanks for your comment.
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Steve Cotton said:
I am shocked, shocked to see you write something positive about “Bésame Mucho” — a close finalist to Most Cliché Song in Mexico. Right after “Guantanamera”, of course. I suppose I can never listen to it again without groaning after its satirical treatment in Moon Over Parador.
I am glad you are enjoying yourself. I had no doubt you would take to Joanne and Jorge. They are a class host act.
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Kim G said:
Hola Steve! I can’t disagree with you about “Besame Mucho,” but this guy had so much talent that it came off fresh and real. Besides, you could argue that I’m in a frame of mind to fall for that song right about now. As for Joanna and Jorge, I seriously can’t say enough good things about them. Saludos.
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Theresa Diaz Gray said:
Hey! how dare you slander Guantaramera. José Martí is rolling over in his grave.
regards,
Theresa
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William said:
You had me hooked from the very first sentence when you said you were at “Amaro”, my favorite restaurant in Mérida! I love that place. There are plenty of wonderful restaurants in the city… one could argue that some have better food… but the total package of “Amaro”… the courtyard setting with its orchid tree, the music, the art, the food, the service… is one of the many reasons I love Mérida. I don’t know who your waiter was, but Enrique, the older guy with the mischievous glint in his eyes, is my favorite waiter in the world. I get an “abrazo” from him every time I go there. I have taken many friends to Mérida, and all of them liked “Amaro” the best, and were charmed by Enrique.
I wonder if the couple who has been married for 42 years is the couple I would see every time there is dancing on one of the plazas… little white haired guy, and a slender, stylish lady. They are really good dancers.
Yes, Uxmal is fantastic. Chichén Itzá is more famous, but I always take friends to Uxmal, and I never tire of visiting it. I enjoyed Mayapán, but I have not been to Acanceh… so you’re one up on me there. Do try to get to Izamal, and Valladolid too (you’ll be able to see the real thing at Ek Balam rather than just the replica at the museum!)
I knew that you would love Mérida! I’ve yet to take anyone there who was not charmed by the city.
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Kim G said:
Hi Bill, I liked Amaro so much that I ate there two days in a row. I had two different waiters, and I’m not sure whether one of them was your guy. I was also drawn there by the vegetarian food which was quite good. Thanks for the wonderful comment. Abrazos y Saludos.
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Tancho said:
Great Photos, perhaps one of these days we’ll load the car up and make it down that a away. Need to figure out what the cool time is down there, we don’t do well after being acclimated at 8500 ft elevation to the humid heat.
A big change from Boston, eh?
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Kim G said:
Hola Tancho, every time I think I’m too hot I just think about shoveling snow with wet, cold feet. And truth be told, the weather has been cooler and drier than normal. People say January is the best month, so maybe that’s when you should come. Saludos.
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Felipe Zapata said:
My wife and I were there in January, and it was quite nice, weather-wise. If you go, that’s a good time. Right now is supposed to be the worst. Kim got lucky.
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Kim G said:
Felipe: my luck on this trip has been nothing short of amazing. People, obviously. But I’ve also totally lucked out with the weather. No rain, and cool here in Mérida. What else could I ask for? Saludos.
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Felipe Zapata said:
P.S.: Drive? Are you loco? Drive to Mexico City and catch Interjet. Be wise.
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Kim G said:
Hey! Let’s not cast aspersions on those who choose to drive!
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ladyofthecakes said:
Ah, there he is 🙂 And happy as Larry, by the sounds of it! Mayan ruins are on my bucket list. I’m gonna make it there, one day. In the meantime, I’ll have to rely on you!
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Kim G said:
Hola Simone! Part of the trouble with getting this post out was that I didn’t feel qualified to write much about the ruins. But I definitely like them. Thanks for commenting and saludos!
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ladyofthecakes said:
Only write about stuff you’re “qualified” for? That would be the end of the world as we know it! Well, the end of the internet, anyway 😉
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Kim G said:
LOL, you do have a point there.
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