Dateline: Valladolid, Yucatán
It was not without a lump in my throat that I finally left Mérida this morning. Joanna and Jorge bid me good bye, and hoped I’d return, a sentiment I heartily shared. Miraculously, just as I was about to get into the truck, the rest of the family showed up, granddaughter in tow, and I was able to bid everyone good bye. I almost feel like I’ve become part of this wonderful family, and it was hard to go.
Jorge had told me to head out Colón, then right at 50, up to 59. Then straight out of town. I followed the directions, but at one point passed something that looked like an overpass, and thought, “Oops! I’ve missed it.” But I kept on going, figuring that sooner or later at the edge of town I’d have another chance. As it turned out, after several more miles, I hit the highway and headed for Izamal.
My plan was to spend most of the afternoon in Izamal, and then head to Valladolid later. After about an hour on the autopista, I landed in Izamal. Apparently ocher is the color of the year there. Or perhaps color of the millennium. Everything in the center of town is painted alike – ocher, with white trim. The effect is actually quite stunning. And the gods didn’t let me down, either. There was a perfect blue sky flecked with clouds to provide the perfect contrast to the deep yellow-gold of the ocher.
Dominating the center of town, the Convento de San Antonio was built in 1549 by the Franciscan Monks, under the direction of Diego de Landa. And in keeping with his way of running things, the convent sits atop an ancient Mayan ruin known as Pap-Hol-Chac (House of Lightning), from which also came the stones that built the Convento. Pap-Hol-Chac has a base which covers a hectare, and was once one of the largest structures in the Mayan world. The convent has the second-largest enclosed atrium in the world, after St. Peter’s in Rome. I go in and stroll around. The church itself is fairly austere, with no gilding, no frescoes, and only a relatively simple altar and backdrop. There’s a museum at the back, but I tell the lady that I’ll come back later. She fails to tell me that they close for a siesta at 2:00 and won’t reopen until 4:00, so when I come back, it’s closed. But I do find a little shrine outdoors, and get a nice shot.
As I stroll the streets, I can hear the clip-clop of horses’ hooves against an otherwise fairly quiet backdrop. Like Mérida, you can go for a ride in a horse-drawn carriage, but unlike Mérida’s white carriages, Izamal’s carriages are brightly colored and festooned with fake flowers. The effect is quite festive, and against the ocher buildings, visually striking too.
Bicycles are also a key mode of transport in Izamal, and the city boasts a fleet of charmingly worn, old bikes. There’s something about these bikes with their single speeds, worn paint, and sheer simplicity that strikes me as evocative. I learned to ride such a bike, and the sight brings me back to my youth. As with so many things in America, bikes have become things of high-tech wizardry, boasting multiple gears, suspensions, fancy brakes, and all manner of improvements. I’m not sure we haven’t over-complicated things. I really like the old bikes of Izamal. Plain. Functional. And beautiful in their own way.
I love the way the paint on the one below is faded. And some of the color seems to have migrated to the back tire.
The streets, of course, provide a beautiful place to ride such a bike.
And the traffic isn’t bad.
Izamal is also famous for some very large Mayan pyramids. I mentioned the one which now forms the base of the Convento de San Antonio. There are also three or four others. All of them are quite large, though mostly unrestored, and of course over the centuries many have lost stones to other building projects. Though they are interesting and worth seeing, I’m not going to write a lot about them, except to say that Kinich Kak Moo uses some of the largest stones I’ve seen in a Mayan pyramid, and I marvel at how they were placed into position.
By this point, I had eaten lunch, wandered all over town, climbed three pyramids, and it was about four o’clock. Those of you familiar with the Yucatán know what this means. I was too bloody hot to continue. Though I had hoped to take one of the horse-drawn carriages around town, by this point all I could think of was getting into my truck with the air conditioning blasting. I was also mindful that it would take a bit more than an hour to get to Valladolid, where I had a hotel reservation. So I bade Izamal a sweaty good-bye, and headed east to Valladolid.
After having basically felt kind of ripped off by the cuotas in Veracruz, where I paid through the nose to drive on rutted, pot-hole ridden highways, I opted for the libre to Valladolid. “This will be a good dry run,” I said to myself. “Let’s see how bad this can really be.” And as it turns out, it was a mixed experience. Fortunately there wasn’t much traffic, and the road was fairly smooth. But there was about 10 centimeters of shoulder, and lots of little towns filled with that bane of Mexican driving, topes. But all in all, the towns were interesting, and fending off trinket vendors definitely kept me awake.
As I arrived in Valladolid, I was being treated to a magnificent Yucatecan sunset, with dramatic clouds, bits of open sky and a beautiful golden light. I itched to get out and take pictures. Fortunately, check-in at the hotel was speedy, and I was in and out in a flash. With a location right across from the cathedral, I couldn’t have been better sited. I set off down a street and was not disappointed by what I found. The combination of the golden glow of sunset, with the amazing clouds, and the faded paint on the buildings proved irresistible. The first shot of course was the Cathedral.
However the side streets proved equally irresistible.
As I strolled down the street, I met an American Expat who had lived there for fourteen years, sitting on the stoop with a Mexican friend. He had a lovely old colonial house, and was very happy there. He invited me to join him, his wife, and some friends for ice cream and cake later as it was his birthday. But by then, I was too tired to go back. Happy Birthday, Tom! Nice meeting you!
By now it was dusk. I snapped a few more photos, and then called it a day.
As I returned to the plaza, I sat and contemplated my good luck. After a wonderful stay in Mérida, I had had a fabulous day in Izamal and now Valladolid. I know I sound like a broken record, but this trip has been absolutely wonderful each and every day. I am very thankful to have this opportunity. I looked around me. Right across the way were two lovers, locked into a passionate embrace. For me this captured some of the magic I’ve experienced these past few weeks. I couldn’t resist grabbing a shot. And with that, I’ll close this post. Saludos!
Dave said:
Kim,
Love
receiving all your updates…. these last pics are beauties!!!
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Kim G said:
Hi Dave! Thanks so much for the kind comment. I’m happy you are following along. Saludos y abrazos!
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William said:
By the way, I forgot to join the others in complimenting you on the lovely photography. Nice job!
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Kim G said:
That’s so nice, Bill. Thank you!
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John Calypso said:
Wow Kim – You seem to cover a lot of ground in a short time (a young mans game that). Great report. Perhaps we will see you up the road.Heading to Xico on Sunday as planned (the second plan).
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Kim G said:
Hola John! I’m a bit stuck here in Valladolid, but I’ll likely move on tomorrow. I hope to see you in Xico. (And my entire trip has been a “second plan,” LOL.) Saludos and thanks for the kind comments.
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babsofsanmiguel said:
SO glad you got to Valladolid. I was so surprised at how few people were there and how clean it is. There is womens coop of the most beautiful hand embroidered and crocheted items just down the street from the Marquesa hotel. Ask anyone. The women are very kind and happy to show their work. Only place I’ve seen this kind of handwork.
I don’t remember the roads to San Cristobal being difficult. It IS, to me, the most beautiful part of Mexico and different then any other part. I could easily live in or near San Cristobal. Chamula and Zincantan are like going back 5oo years in time, at least. Hope you get there.
Here our nights are in the low 50’s and days are in the mid 80’s. PERFECT weather…..Just an FYI. May is our quietest month with plenty of accomodations for visitors……..
I know I couldn’t take that heat at this time in the Yucatan………Good luck, whatever you decide!
Oh, and the photos are ALL wonderful!
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Kim G said:
Hi Barbara! I’m in a bit of a quandary about the weather. Also I kind of lost today as I spent the morning finishing my post. Then I missed the only tour of the Casa de los Venados. And then it got too hot and too late to go to Ek Balam. I am hoping to do both tomorrow, but I don’t want to spend another night. I do want to go to San Cristobal, so we’ll see what happens. Thanks for the comments on the photos. Saludos!
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Andean said:
Hola Kim, I’m really enjoying your trip. 🙂 The photo of the horse with the Panama hat is priceless. What pretty streets to ride through in a horse-drawn carriage!
I thought spring would never arrive, but it’s here. Boston should welcome you in five weeks with sunny skies, colorful trees and bright flowers.
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Kim G said:
Hola Andean! I’m enjoying your comments. I looked at the weather today in Boston, and it’s about 57°, way better than freezing. I think I still prefer the Mexican weather, though here in Yucatán, it may be too much of a good thing, LOL. Thanks for your comments and saludos!
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Andean said:
I have always liked the Mexican weather on the coast, especially its warm ocean waters.
And, after your detailed posts and photos, I would like to visit the exciting cities and colorful towns, I never thought of doing. As far as the heat, our summers get way up into the high 90’s, and beyond some years. And that’s where a/c comes in. I much prefer it to the freezing cold.
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Kim G said:
I enjoy the summer in Boston, which is cooler than the NYC Metro area. And I always get a chuckle out of people complaining about how “hot and humid” it is. Saludos.
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Andean said:
Did I ever complain? The weather here has been fabulous!!
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Florentino Gutiérrez said:
What an awesome picture of the Cathedral. Right now it’s almost 100F in Monterrey, and as I was reading your interesting narration about your afternoon in Izamal, I remembered that in many small Mexican southern cities and villages all activities cease and everybody indulges to the pleasures of a siesta. Perhaps it’s the most sensible thing to do! Me alegro que no te apresures a decidir hacia dónde irás a continuación… sino que te tomes el tiempo de descansar y después pensar. “After all, tomorrow is another day”. Enjoy!
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Kim G said:
Hola Tino! Somehow I overlooked Monterrey when I was looking for hotter cities in Mexico. But you all are probably just as hot as here. I’m thinking of going into the hotel pool, which is finally in the shade. But I’m also texting with Edgar now too. Thanks for your comment. Saludos y Abrazos.
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redshoesarebetterthanbacon said:
Be sure and eat your share of cochinita pibil on Sunday! And pork and beans on Monday.
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Kim G said:
Hi Jennifer. Is there a back story to this comment? I just had lomitos for lunch, so I’m not yet ready for more pork, but we’ll see what Sunday brings. Saludos!
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redshoesarebetterthanbacon said:
Lomitos are not cochinia pibil, which is a traditional Sunday dish, just as frijol con puerco is a traditional Monday dish. Just as turkey is a traditional Thanksgiving Day dish in El Otro Lado.
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Kim G said:
Ah! Thanks for the clarification. (I realize lomitos aren’t cochinita pibil, but they are both pork.)
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William said:
In spite of all the times I’ve been to Mérida, and having tried most of the traditional dishes, I had never had frijol con puerco. I never saw it on a restaurant menu. Then on my last trip to Mexico City, I went to a Yucatecan restaurant and finally had frijol con puerco (on a Saturday no less). It was quite yummy, especially with the special salsa that they served on the side.
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Kim G said:
Bill: I’ll have to try it. Meanwhile, I’m finding the habanero sauces here much more appealing (and edible) than I would have expected. Saludos y gracias por comentar.
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William said:
I really suspect that they are toning down the habanero salsas. I remember the first time I visited the Yucatán… a few drops of habanero sauce in my soup made it absolutely inedible. Now I find that a little habanero is OK, and even the salsas that are too hot (my aging palate and stomach can’t take as much picante as they used to) don’t seem as incendiary as it did on that first trip.
¡Saludos, amigo!
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Kim G said:
Bill: I think you and I are developing a Mexican palate, tolerant of more spice than in the past. If they were toning down salsas, wouldn’t the locals complain? My lomitos were served in a neighborhood restaurant where I was the only tourist, and probably one of the very few they ever see. Saludos, and thanks for really adding to the discussion!
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Carlos said:
Your Narrative is absorbing, Your Photos are National Geographic grade.
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Kim G said:
Thanks Carlos! That’s very high praise. I appreciate it. Saludos, and thanks for commenting.
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Kim G said:
PS. I got very lucky with the light in Valladolid.
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Florentino Gutiérrez said:
I absolutely agree.
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Kim G said:
Awwww. Thanks. You are too kind.
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William said:
I loved reading about your visits to Izamal and Valladolid, two towns that I know quite well. Do you know why everything in Izamal is painted yellow ochre with white trim? Back when Pope John Paul visited the town, they freshly painted everything in the papal colors of yellow and white. They have continued doing that ever since, and it adds to the town’s charm with tourists… and probably helped in winning the designation as a “Pueblo Mágico.” They refer to it as “La ciudad amarilla.” While in Valladolid,I don’t know if you made it to nearby Ek Balam, but if you didn’t, it gives you an excuse to return someday.
I’ve never been to Cobá. That was part of a planned trip that never occurred because my friend Alan was diagnosed that winter. Chetumal… with emphasis on the MAL… is an armpit (I refer to it as the southern armpit, Tijuana being the northern armpit). It’s been decades since I’ve been there, but friends were there more recently, and they were not impressed either.
San Cristóbal is a fantastic place, and the Mayan towns nearby are like another world. However, the road up to San Cristóbal is a long and very, very winding 2 lane road. Whether you do San Cristóbal or not you could still visit Palenque on your way back. It’s one of the most beautiful Mayan ruins. There are now vendors within the archaeological site (a la Chichén Itzá), and you can no longer descend inside the pyramid to the tomb of King Pakal as I did many years ago. But it is still a magical place… a very different architectural style from Uxmal and surrounded by tropical rainforest. A short drive from Palenque is the beautiful waterfall of Misol Ha.
Continued happy travels to you!
Saludos from Ohio where today it is approaching 70 degrees.
Bill
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Kim G said:
Hi Bill! I am still in Valladolid, debating my own sanity. It’s 97° on its way to 100°. Though it could be more humid, it’s definitely not dry. I’ve wandered around town a bit before finally admitting defeat and returning to my air conditioned hotel room. After climbing pyramids in Izamal yesaterday and getting too hot, I’m wondering whether to head back to the highlands with the idea of doing more Yucatán in January. Virtually every other city in Mexico is cooler now, including places like Mazatlán. I’d like to see nearby Ek Balam, but am keen on avoiding heat stroke too.
I’d also like to spend more time with Edgar, and I need to be back in Boston in 5 weeks. Decisions, decisions. Thanks for your detailed comment. Saludos y abrazos.
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William said:
I understand what you’re saying. I’ve not been in Yucatán during the hot spring season, but I understand that it can be brutal… probably the reason why I don’t think I would want to live in Mérida year round. Head back to the highlands, and spend some more time with Edgar. There is plenty more to see in the Puebla region, and you can always return to Yucatán for a winter trip.
Saludos
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Kim G said:
I’m definitely going back and forth on the question.
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Don Cuevas said:
San Cristobal de Las Casas, Chiapas. Cool and picturesque, high in the mountains.
Saludos,
Don Cuevas
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Kim G said:
Don Cuevas, yes, I’ve read about San Cristobal. My only objection is the iffy road getting there. But we’ll see. I need to get away from the heat. Saludos.
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NORM said:
The hotel at Coba is an interesting old Club Med if you are skipping the Cancun area. The lagoon there has some of the biggest fresh water crocodiles I’ve seen.
I liked the horse taxis in Izamal, the locals were calling them up on their cell phones for home pick-up, they were not just a tourist prop.
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Kim G said:
Interesting note on the taxis, Norm. As for Cobá, I think I’ve gone about as far in Yucatán as I’ll go. I’m starting to think about getting back without too much hurry. I’m even beginning to wonder whether San Cristóbal de las Casas shouldn’t be part of another trip. Fortunately I don’t have to decide today. Thanks for your comment and saludos!
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NORM said:
Coba is ‘sort’ of the way back, a short pop east and then an hour to Coba, a short day to Chetumal from there. The road back to the Gulf of Mexico across the base of the Yucatan Peninsula is a good road. Watch the town of Escarcega…
The road 203 to Guatemala’s La Libertad is open and paved going through Tenosique. Google Sweaty Peten for an idea of that adventure.
It’s all on the way my friend.
It was 30 degrees here in Ohio this morning-stay south.
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Kim G said:
What should I be looking for in Escárcega?
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NORM said:
Escarcega is a crossroads town that has a well deserved reputation for ripping off travelers. Been there-got the T-shirt.
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Kim G said:
OK. Thanks for letting me know, Norm. I shall be wary there.
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Felipe Zapata said:
Very nice report, as are they all.
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Kim G said:
Thanks, Felipe! I appreciate your comments. Saludos.
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Don Cuevas said:
Escarcega has a reputation for boring unattractiveness. I do admit, I’ve never been there.
Saludos,
Don Cuevas
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Kim G said:
Don Cuevas, LOL. Here I thought Norm was alluding to a den of crooked Pemex guys or something. Thanks for the tip.
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Cat said:
I agree with Christine! A coffee table book, with stories of your adventures, including your wonderful pictures, would be awesome! Thanks for taking us along for the ride.
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Kim G said:
Hi Cat, Thanks for the words of support. I’m not sure I’ve got a book in me, but I guess we’ll see. Saludos!
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Ken said:
Sometimes, the smallest things can make the most vivid memories…
I recall a moment from 20 years ago, my wife and I in the bar/restaurant of the Hotel El Meson de Marques on the main square in Valladolid, eating the most perfect fresh habañero salsa with cold cervezas. Valladolid was an overnight stop for us between Cancun and Chichen Itza, during our first trip to Mexico.
I know that I have remembered that moment hundreds of times in the years since.
We took the cuota on the way, and the libre on the return. On the libre route, every small town tope comes with a gaggle of children selling the ubiquitous Mayan handkerchiefs and mystery fruit in plastic bags!
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Kim G said:
Hi Ken, thanks for sharing your story. I think this trip will be full of amazing memories, and I’m enjoying the blog as it helps fix things in my mind. Saludos!
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Christine said:
That picture of the cathedral at sunset and “Entry to Calzada de los Frailes” are magnificent. I too am beginning to see a book here. Perhaps a large coffee table book with big pictures and the story of your picaresque adventures on the road. I think it would be a hit!
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Kim G said:
Hi Christine! Thanks so much for the kind words. And you chose my favorite photos too. The light at that point was just amazing. Saludos!
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Christine Dubois said:
Im sure you have seen paintings by El Greco. The clouds in the Entry to Calzada look just like the ones he painted behind his saints.
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Kim G said:
You really are TOO kind. Thanks.
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