It’s been a long, hard struggle. But at last, I’ve prevailed. I’m now officially a Chilango, with my own apartment and Mexico City address, where I’ve been living since Friday afternoon.
After my last interaction with “La Mensa de Las Ventas,” I decided that I had had enough, fired up my computer, and determined that I’d live anywhere except a place under the so-called “management” of that loony lady. A quick perusal of Vivanuncios.com.mx revealed a furnished one-bedroom in Roma Sur, amazingly close to a penthouse that had been the subject of some fantasies. I rang the number.
“Bueno?” a voice called out. Wow! I reached him on the first try!
“Hola, I’m calling about the apartment,” I said (in Spanish, of course).
“When do you want to see it?”
“How about now?”
“Sure, that’s fine. ”
“Uh, OK, well in about 20 minutes. I’m in Colonia Juarez and when I arrive depends on the Metrobús, but I’m leaving now. I’ll just phone you when I get there?”
“Yeah, I’ll be here.”
“OK, thanks. See you soon,” I said and hung up, suddenly excited.
Could this be it? I dashed out of my hotel room and headed for the Metrobús stop. A bus soon came, and given the hour, around 4:30 PM, it fortunately wasn’t too crowded. When I got to the apartment, there was an aging and dusty Lamborghini parked in front, a tarp covering the passenger cabin, held in place by an old tire. Interesting. Otherwise the street was nice, with lots of trees and lined with lovely houses. Next door was a charmer from the Porfiriato, all of its neoclassical detail nicely maintained.
I rang the cell number, and the owner, a gentleman of seventy-something let me in and showed me the place. In the courtyard was parked a Rolls Royce, clearly not in current use, but less than twenty years old too.
The apartment, in the back, behind the owner’s house on the second floor, still held the prior tenant’s belongings and could use some cleaning. But overall, it looked great, a one-bedroom with a kitchenette, gas stove, a cobalt-blue refrigerator, and a breakfast counter separating the kitchen from the living/dining area. The rent, $11,900MXN per month (about $650USD) was on target. More importantly, it included all utilities including super-fast internet, much faster than what I have in Boston. And I wouldn’t have to deal with any bureaucracies, neither Telmex nor CFE, nor with gas companies. I’d just have to pay my monthly rent. To me that was a huge attraction. The best part of all? I had been in the neighborhood about four or five times in the prior week as I was scoping it out due to the availability of a penthouse for sale a block away. All the neighbors I had chatted with said it was a great place to live, safe, quiet, and with a real sense of community.
I told the landlord, Rafael, that I wanted the place. He said that the current tenant had moved out, but was running down his deposit. Rafael would call him to see if he could get his stuff out soon, and he would refund the tenant his pro-rated deposit too, so he’d have an incentive. I left Rafael $1,000MXN as a deposit (about $55/USD), all the money in my wallet, and he took my number and said he’d call when he knew when the prior tenant would leave.
Rafael and I seemed to hit it off, finding ourselves chatting about the global economy, Mexico’s politics and education system, and prospects for Mexico City’s new status as a state. He’s quite an interesting character. With an MBA from ITAM, one of Mexico’s top business schools, he had been an entrepreneur, finance chief for a number of large Mexican companies, former race car driver, and was working on plans to launch a 970 horsepower, Mexican-made supercar to challenge the likes of Ferrari. In short, Rafael was no menso at all, and I felt like we might even become friends.
The next day, Thursday, he rang and said the apartment would be available on Friday after it was cleaned. The night before, he had sent me a two-page, very commonsense rental agreement, which seemed primarily focused on keeping the building peaceful, safe, and quiet for everyone, and to not waste energy and other resources. I had a couple of quibbles, and he agreed to accommodate me. On the phone, I agreed to come down and pay the deposit, one month’s rent.
On Friday afternoon, I showed up, paid my rent, and voilá! I moved in and am now officially a Chilango. The process was almost the exact opposite of the endless delays, wrong turns, and general idiocy of “La Mensa de Las Ventas.” In fact, it was breathtakingly efficient.
And the place is perfect for me. About 400 square feet, situated in Roma Sur, near the Chilpancingo metro/Metrobús stop, it’s very quiet, safe (Rafael’s Lamborghini remains unmolested on the street), and convenient. On Saturday’s there’s a tianguis (open-air/farmers’ market) on the next street over. A block away is a small supermarket (Sumesa). There are two Ecobici (bike sharing) stations within a couple blocks, and many restaurants, cafés, hair dressers, laundry places, and other small businesses within a couple of blocks. A locksmith down the street changed the key to my front door for a mere $100 pesos yesterday. (~$5.55USD) I can also easily walk to all the restaurants and other attractions in Condesda and catch the Metrobús to the Zona Rosa. Now that I’ve spent a couple nights here, I couldn’t be happier.
So, at last, the goddess smiled. Now my adventure can really begin. Saludos!
Cat said:
Sorry I haven’t been able to comment sooner, but you have indeed become lax in your updates. Just kidding, but some of us are waiting to hear more about your life in Chilangolandia. 😉
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Kim G said:
Hola Cat! Indeed I have become lax. And now so much stuff has happened, that it’d make a 10,000 word blog post, haha. I’m wrestling with what to write about. It’s either too much, or somehow irrelevant, haha. I should pen something. Anyway, Saludos and thanks for sticking with me!
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Felipe Zapata said:
Oh, Kim, the lads like older guys because that’s where the cash is, of course.
Great apartment. Congrats. Didn’t see this post till today.
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Kim G said:
Hola Felipe! I don’t know about your assessment on what the young guys want, though one never can be sure. But thanks for the congratulations on my apartment. Saludos and thanks for stopping by!
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babsofsanmiguel said:
Wow, I’m gone for two months and your whole life changes! When I left you were planning a “visit” to DF, now you’re living there. I guess I need to go back to December and read all your posts.
I’m thrilled for you. Enjoy, but be safe.
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Kim G said:
Hola Barbara!
Sometimes the lack of planning in my life amazes me, but then I spent the prior 30 years in such an excessively planned mode that it’s nice to be a little random.
So I’ve got this place through July, and then it becomes a month-to-month lease. Though not perfect, I like it a lot and like the neighborhood. Life here is so far MUCH more exciting than in Boston, though I miss my friends. Thanks for stopping by and commenting! Saludos!
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Unconfirmed Bachelorette said:
It’s lovely! The perfect home base from which to stage your adventures. I’m guessing you’ve had a few already. Muy bien, Kim!
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Kim G said:
Hola Ella! Yes, indeed, I’ve a quite a few adventures, though I’m not sure how many of them are suitable for the blog, haha. But let’s just say that dating young men hasn’t really changed since I was one, though here they definitely seem to have a thing for older guys, unlike in the USA. Saludos and thanks for stopping by!
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garydenness said:
That is a fine looking apartment! Like everything in Mexico, patience pays! You’ve got only a six month contract on it though? Is it extendable? Here’s hoping you keep it till September at the very least…!
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Kim G said:
Hola Gary! Well, in this case impatience paid. Had I been patient, I’d probably still be trying to negotiate the apartment in Cuauhtemoc. I’ve got a minimum lease of 6 months, but I’m sure the landlord would be thrilled if I stayed longer. As for September, we shall see. Saludos!
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Angeline M said:
Love that kitchen! Felicidades!
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Kim G said:
Hola Angeline! Thank you! Me too! Saludos!
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johncalypso said:
Anita and I are excited about your new residence amigo – congrats – Looks very efficient and tidy. Welcome!
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Kim G said:
Hola John! Thank you so much! I can’t tell you how happy I am to be here, really. I love the place, the landlord and his wife are super-cool, and the location is fantastic. Saludos!
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Christine Dubois said:
How nice to find a place to live where the landlord is a potential friend! It’s a lovely apartment in a great neighborhood. Congratulations.
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Kim G said:
Hola Christine! Thank you very much; I feel the same: very fortunate to have found this place in all aspects. Saldos!
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Penny said:
Congrats on the new digs! p
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Kim G said:
Thanks, Penny! I’m very happy here, going on day three!
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Don Cuevas said:
Very very nice, Kim! Felicidades.
We have been in that neighborhood more than once. In 2005, we sub-let an apartment for two weeks on Calle Puerto México, close to Viaducto.
Moreover, in regard to your new landlord, Rafael, (with an MBA from ITAM), one of or best amigas teaches at ITAM. Pequeño Mundo, ¿verdad?
If you would like any restaurant suggestions, I’d be happy to send you some, by private email, unless you’d prefer to have them on your blog.
Saludos,
Don Cuevas
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Kim G said:
Hola Don Cuevas! Yes, I’m very happy here so far. Any restaurant suggestions would be appreciated, but don’t feel obligated. If you’d like to share them with the blog, that’s lovely, but I will appreciate them no less via email too. And yes, it is a small world. Saludos and thanks for the kind comment!
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Don Cuevas said:
KimG, I’ll get to work on listing suggested restaurants.
I’ll send them to you by email, and you can publish what you like here.
Here are a few, to get started.
The area around Mercado Medellín* has many economical ones, but most I’ve not eaten at. Ostionería La Morenita, inside the Mercado is pretty good, but I prefer Fonda La Veracruzana, a 10 minute walk to the west.
There are several Colombian restaurants in the immediate area, but I’ve tried none of those. Similarly, a Cuban place on the mezzanine in the Mercado.
The carnicerías in the Mercado has super good looking meat, especially beef. There’s a Columbian influence.
If you like chicharrones, those hanging there are spectacular, like piggy curtains.
La Reyna de La Roma is a carnitas/antojitos place across from the Mercado, where we ate only once. I haven’t especially wanted to return. It’s o.k. pero no me llamó la atencíon.
El Hidalguense, on Calle Campeche is noted for barbacoa, open only F-Sa-Su. More expensive than average. Good.
*Very nice mercado. Map: https://goo.gl/maps/wHsa3wpZByB2
Saludos,
Don Cuevas
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Kim G said:
Hola Don Cuevas! Thanks for the kind listing. I don’t know exactly why this comment went for approval, maybe you put a different e-mail address? Anyway, thanks for your input. Saludos!
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ladyofthecakes said:
I’m in love with that fridge….
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Kim G said:
Hola Simone, me too, expect for one little thing. It took two days to turn a tray of water into a tray of ice cubes and I’m not convinced that they don’t have liquid centers. Also it’s an energy hog. But I’d LOVE to have a cobalt blue fridge at home. Saludos!
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ladyofthecakes said:
Oh I see… all flash, no oooomph… ain’t it always the way?!
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Tancho said:
Waiting for the other shoe to drop…
Just kidding.
The place looks clean and sufficient for your immediate needs. As long as you don’t start accumulating STUFF.
The more stuff you get the bigger place you are going to have to get.
The location is great, can’t wait to hear your immersion into the neighborhood.
Will have to send you a house warming basket with stuff….
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Kim G said:
Hola Tancho! Stuff! Yes, that’s the bane of my life in Boston. I moved to my house from a 2 bedroom apartment, which was not overfurnished. Now after nearly 20 years living in the same house in Boston, boy! do I have STUFF!!!
Lawnmower, 2 leaf blowers (gas & electric), snow blower, 2 cars, furniture, 2 table saws (don’t ask), an in-home gym, loads of hand tools, small power tools. And books. Did I mention books?
As for here, I’m strongly tempted to buy new cookware, even if only for 6 months as the stuff that came with the place is old, and of dubious original quality.
Anyway, I’m LOVING the neighborhood. I’ve been to the supermarket 3 times today as it’s only a 90 second walk. I also stocked up on fruit and vegetables at the tianguis a street over. It happens every Saturday.
Anyway, thanks for commenting. Saludos!
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Barbara Lane said:
Bingo! : )
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Kim G said:
Hahaha…Thank you, Barbara!
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LaurieLaGringa said:
Congratulations! It looks perfect.
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Kim G said:
Thanks, Laurie. So far, it is perfect. Saludos!
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William said:
Too bad you had to go through so much rigmarole with “la mensa”… well at least it provided fodder for a couple blog posts. Having seen your place yesterday, I think you made a good choice, and I like the neighborhood too.
Enjoy your new home away from home!
Saludos y abrazos,
Bill
(who sadly will soon be going back to the cold in Ohio)
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Kim G said:
Hola Bill! Yes, I’m thrilled to be here. And the fact that it’s dead quiet at night is more than I could have asked for. I’m already enjoying. Saludos!
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Mani (A New Life Wandering) said:
Wow, that sounds like an amazingly seamless find and move. Good for you! Congrats. The place is cute and the location sounds really great.
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Kim G said:
Hola Mani! Thank you! Yes, the whole transaction was the exact opposite of the first attempt: easy, fast, and with a high level of trust on both sides. Saludos!
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