Dateline: In the War Zone of Mexico City
There’s a war going on here. A battle in the streets. You may not have heard of it. Sadly, it’s been going on for years now, so it’s not really newsworthy any more. Oh, sure, the occasional outrage beyond the normal course of battle may well get a couple of lines on page D-11 of the local papers. I know I’ve read a story or two about a particularly gory dumping of remains here and there. But pretty much the conflict has faded into the background, with everyone resigned to this war as just one of the facts of living in Mexico City. The capitalinos are resilient bunch, if nothing else. And foreigners had better just adapt if they want to live here.
Perhaps more shockingly, this battle isn’t limited to some fringe areas like the infamous Tepito, some random, informally-settled hillside at the edge of town, or in some other marginal neighborhoods. Nope. This battle is being fought in some of the poshest areas of town. Reforma itself, Mexico City’s “Champs d’Elysées,” is the site of near-constant conflict. And skirmishes regularly break out in places like public parks, plazas, the leafy Boulevard Álvaro Obregón, Condesa, and yes, even in Polanco. The tourists complain about it, but the locals just shrug. In fact, most don’t even notice.
But this is not to say that the city is just accepting this state of affairs. No. The government of Mexico City has hired literally thousands of warriors to fight this battle. And the city shows no signs of wearying in its attempt to impose order on the streets. To their credit, they’ve got an impressive force. Thousands and thousands of these agents patrol the streets, armed with traditional, but sturdy weapons. And despite their archaic look, at least to Gringos, these sturdy weapons are more than up to the task of waging the battle, however inefficiently. Moreover the city has heavier equipment that it deploys when the battle grows intense, as well as a number of fixed installations, though not enough, and too small and weak to really control much territory.
But as the history of this war too clearly shows, it’s a war of attrition, with victory far from a foregone conclusion for either side. Though the city’s warriors are well-equipped for battle, adequately trained, fully backed by the force of law, and willing to fight, the fact of the matter is that they are vastly outnumbered by the superior, if lazier, millions on the other side.
Fortunately, there’s no shortage of combatants on the dark side who are tiring of the battle and would like to come clean, literally. And interestingly, their fellow combatants haven’t taken any reprisals against these turncoats. Perhaps because the forces of darkness are almost endless? Perhaps because they accept a certain level of attrition? Who knows? But there’s seemingly little to no downside to escaping from a life of grime.
Sadly, the city hasn’t made it easy for the turncoats to come clean. Oh sure, any strong-willed person could easily cross over to the good side, just as some people can simply quite smoking. But for most it’s tough, and recidivism runs high. And maybe that’s just the nature of things, that this battle will rage on eternally. Personally, I’m praying for peace.
I refer, of course, to the battle against litter and trash. Simply put, I seriously doubt there’s a city in North America with a lower ratio of public trash cans to population anywhere. Take the Plaza de Los Insurgentes, crossed by literally millions of people a day. It’s the size of a football field and always full of people. Yet there is not a single public trash can. Not a one. I’ve repeatedly scoured the place, and I can assure you. Elsewhere? On street corners? Nope. In other plazas? Nope. Along busy pedestrian streets? ¡No mames, güey!* Mostly this is a trash-can-free city, though there are a few exceptions.
Sure, there are a few places with public trash cans, like along Reforma or in parts of the Centro Histórico. But they’re almost laughable, tiny little things, the child soldiers of this particular war, unfit for the battles that await them. Like two office wastebaskets, joined at the hip and hiked up a small pole with a small opening, they are somehow meant to contain the trash of several hundred thousand pedestrians before they overflow. And that’s when the bins themselves aren’t completely missing, leaving only the poles behind, an all-too-common occurrence. Unfortunately there are too many of these “walking wounded” soldiers around town. It’s a disquieting sight.
So it’s likely this battle will continue to rage on, with the city’s army of trash sweepers, equipped with their Harry-Potter brooms on one side, and the millions of trash-dropping combatants on the other side. Those of us who simply wish to put trash in its place are stuck in the middle of this combat zone while the battle rages on.
For now, the city is winning through sheer perseverance, but tomorrow is another day. As for me? I’m doing my part, but it’s a daily struggle.
* Chilango-speak for “You’re shitting me!” or “No Way!”
Unconfirmed Bachelorette said:
I adore my Don’t Mess With Texas app that permits me to report litterers to the authorities. I expect the reporting of discarded cigarette butts is a step or two ahead in those parts.
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Kim G said:
Hola Ella! There’s an app? Where you can report scofflaws? Wow, that’s impressive. I lived in Texas on and off from 1986 to 1991, and “Don’t Mess With Texas” had just started, but it sounds like it’s come a long way. Saludos!
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garydenness said:
At least a carpet of trash on the pavement provides some protection from the countless dog turds. Providing the trash arrived after the turd…
What happened once they closed down that ridiculously huge landfill site that dealt with Mexico City’s waste?
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Kim G said:
Hola Gary! I think the dog turds (though not up to US or probably UK standards in their absence) are probably getting better. I have recently personally witnessed people in places like Parque México and Parque España actually picking up dog turds with plastic bags and properly disposing of them. So some progress is being made. As for the landfill site, I literally have no idea. In fact, I’ve never heard of it. Saludos and thanks for stopping by!
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William said:
I’ve never really had a problem with dog poop in Mexico City. In Condesa, where I stay, there are hundreds of people out walking their dogs all the time. They seem to be conscientious about picking up the dog turds. I could probably count on the fingers of one hand the times that I have noticed any poop. In Parque México they even have a composting bin for dog waste.
On the other hand there was that time I was walking in a park in Barcelona…
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Kim G said:
Hola Bill! My experience is somewhere between yours and Gary’s. I’ve seen some dog poop, but it doesn’t seem to be all that bad, at least where I hang out (between Viaducto and Cuauhtémoc). Saludos and thanks for your comment!
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chris said:
“no guey” I wonder how Chinese cities handle the trash? I’ve never been to China but they must have some issues like their air quality.
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Kim G said:
Hola Chris! I think Chinese air quality makes industrial-revolution London look like it had pristine mountain air. As for trash, I have no idea, really. I’ve never been to China, though hopefully that changes some day. Saludos and thanks for stopping by!
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garydenness said:
London had pretty grim pollution issues relatively recently. Pea soupers were killing people by the thousands in the 50s. I think the worst took 12,000 lives in just a few days. And the Thames….oh dear.
Today, you can breathe safely in London even during a fog, and salmon have been found in the Thames. Battles can be won. Of course, each battle is just part of a never ending war that we humans are waging on our environments.
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Kim G said:
Hola Gary! Are you sure those salmon in the Thames weren’t just tossed there by some angry restaurateur? Seriously though, you have a point. Air and water pollution can be solved; it just takes some political will. As for Mexico City, it’s clean, but at what must be an absurdly high cost. Saludos and thanks for stopping by!
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William said:
Obviously in a city of over 20 million people, disposing of trash is going to be a gargantuan battle. But I do think that the Mexicans’ attitudes toward littering are ever so slowly changing. When you walk around the city in the morning you see scores of business employees and homeowners (or more often their maids) sweeping and even washing down the sidewalks. The fact that the few trash bins that exist are overflowing with more trash piled around them, shows that there are plenty of people who want to put trash in its place… if only there were more receptacles! It should be a priority of the city government to start installing thousands of trash bins throughout the city. Educational anti-littering campaigns are going to be futile unless there is someplace to put the litter.
Saludos,
Bill
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Kim G said:
Hola Bill! Exactly! That’s my point about the city making it hard for scofflaws to go over to the light side, the side of order and cleanliness. Even if you want to the right thing, either there’s no trash barrel, or it’s full. Saludos and thanks for stopping by!
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Felipe Zapata said:
It’s not just in Mexico City. There are few public trash cans anywhere in Mexico. But Chilangos are nasty people. Out here in the provinces, we stay pretty tidy using the options available.
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Kim G said:
Hola Felipe! I’m not sure I’d agree with your assessment of Chilangos, exactly. But they are a hurried, stressed, and pressured bunch, especially compared to the more relaxed folks in your neck of the woods. But yeah, this story could have been written about most places in Mexico where there are few trash cans and MANY people paid to pick up and tidy. Saludos and thanks for stopping by!
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Lee Steele said:
I remember as a kid in the 1970s, the Keep America Beautiful campaign really did a good job reaching my peer group. That might well be replicated in Mexico — right up to a TV commercial with a counterpart to that famous commercial with the actor playing a Native American, with a tear running down his cheek.
The Forest Service had Woodsy Owl (Give A Hoot! Don’t Pollute!” We ate it up! There were even comic books, which I remember enjoying.
(I looked it up just now, and both of these icons were invented in 1971, which means I’m a very old man. But I’m also part of a generation that looked at litter differently than our predecessors. A kid tossing a candy wrapper onto the playground would have been scorned by his playmates.)
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Kim G said:
Hola Lee! Indeed, it was in our young lifetimes that the attitude toward littering changed in the USA. I think there’s a famous scene in “Mad Men,” where they go on a picnic, and after they’re done, they just shake all the paper plates, etc off tablecloth into the wilderness and get back in their car and leave. Things have indeed changed, and for the better. I hope Mexico can do something similar. But as I noted in another comment, CDMX is pretty clean, but it takes a lot of force. Saludos and thanks for stopping by!
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Steve Cotton said:
I continue the guerilla warfare on the coast. My street corner actually seems to be improving.
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Kim G said:
Hola Steve! Where I live in Boston, we have plenty of trash cans in the park, and my neighbors and I pick up what doesn’t make it into them, so it’s pretty clean. And actually, CDMX is pretty clean too, but it’s a lot of work on the part of the folks who keep it that way. Saludos and thanks for stopping by!
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