Dateline: A Gringo-Infested, English-Speaking Barrio
Ajijic is a weird place. No, I’m not just referring to the crushing horde of elderly gringos patrolling the streets. Nor am I referring to the shocking abundance of good, foreign restaurants, though by Mexican standards, both of those things are weird. No, I’m referring to the preponderance of English. Drop into a restaurant, and more likely than not the menu will be in English. And the waiter too will be “in English.” Most surprising? There are plenty of folks down here who look totally Mexican, but when they open their mouths, they sound just like gringos, down to our slang and odd linguistic tics. Yeah, I know, they grew up, at least partially, in the USA and now find themselves back SOB for one reason or other. And really, where else in Mexico would speaking flawless English be a bigger asset? Perhaps San Miguel de Allende, but I don’t recall so much flawless English on the part of the natives there. Usually when a Mexican is speaking English in SMA, he’s got an accent, and maybe a limited range of vocabulary. Here? They’re one step away from correcting my English grammar.
And the truly weird thing? The thing that kind of annoys me, and trips me up? When I speak Spanish to Mexicans here, at least half of them answer me back in English, at least in restaurants. I’m not kidding. And it’s not because I’m struggling. At the risk of sounding conceited, I get TONS of compliments on my Spanish here, when someone is willing to speak it with me. When they’re not answering back in English, the Mexicans usually are asking me where I’m from, as in they can’t place the accent. In Mexico City I’ve more than once been taken for either European or we-don’t-know-where-the-hell-you’re-from. But I’m seldom guessed as a Gringo, and folks, at least in CDMX, are often shocked by the truth. So it’s not that I’m struggling to speak heavily-accented Spanish. But here I get answered in English anyway. Oddly enough, this even happens from time to time in Guadalajara, though rarely. But it NEVER happens elsewhere.
Some of the adulation is at least partly a function of the overall appalling state of Gringo Spanish here. I had a long chat one afternoon with the folks who run La Arepa Venezolana, a lovely little restaurant on the highway in Riberas del Pilar. They were not only shocked at my Spanish, but were surprised by the sheer number of gringos who had lived lakeside for ten, twenty, or more years and who could still barely manage anything beyond “La cuenta, por favor.” I told them that it gave me “pena ajena” (the opposite of schadenfreude) that so many of my countrymen had moved here but never learned the language.
But given the above, who can really blame them? Any effort to practice is quickly foiled, and only the most determined can proceed. Of course learning language at retirement age is going to be a bit of a slog anyway. Not only has one’s brain changed, but one’s entire approach to study is also different. I know a few gringos here who take Spanish lessons, but no one’s madly studying, either to really learn, or even just to pass an exam. The classes I know of are no-exam, no-pressure classes, probably due to the limited marketability of a real, tension-filled class with deadlines, papers, and stress. Sadly, it’s the latter that motivates most of us.
So take all the natural reasons for not learning a language — difficulty, weak study habits, no sense of urgency — and then add a Mexican population which seems to be actively colluding to keep anyone from developing any real proficiency in Spanish, and this is what you get: the worst place in Mexico to learn Spanish.
My advice? If you want to learn Spanish, move somewhere else, and stay away from English speakers. Yes, it’s exhausting, but so is every other intellectual achievement you ever made, whether that be graduating from high school, college, trade school, learning a musical instrument, or some other achievement. However, if you stick with it, then some day you’ll gain a real understanding of this complex, crazy, and utterly fascinating country. Until then, avoid Ajijic like the plague. At least if you ever hope to speak naturally with the natives.
Hi Kim, I haven’t been to Ajijic but from what I have heard it is totally a foreign enclave of people who don’t bother to learn Spanish. I, like you, take pride in my Spanish and am so glad that I can communicate with the locals. I live in a more rural area where no one speaks English. For me – I’m a language freak- but I honestly believe if you want to immerse yourself into another culture, it is only fair to learn the language, participate in local cultural events, and try to salvage the Mexican charm of the place you were drawn to. Just my opinion. When Mexicans see you are trying to speak Spanish, they manage to communicate and respect you more. I don’t think I would like an atmosphere like Ajijic, and have been pretty happy being in the Yucatan area where Mayan can still be heard, and not that many locals speak Spanish. Most recently many of the tons of expats moving into Merida, for example, don’t speak Spanish. I like the comment that living in Ajijjic is like living ‘close to Mexico’. Enjoyed the latest blogs. Saludos, Lin D.
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Hola Lin! Thanks for the reply. Yes, I agree pretty much with what you’ve written there. My compatriots’ lack of Spanish gives me “pena ajena.” I can get that it takes people a while, but after 10 years? You should be able to hold a basic conversation in Spanish. Anyway, sorry this took so long to approve. Use the same name and email, and it’ll go right through next time. Saludos.
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There are innumerous Mexicans in Guadalajara that speak fluent English. Many are alumni of the many bilingual colegios, preparatorias and universidades. Most do tend to belong to the middle or upper classes. They usually speak quite clearly and with little to no accent. And the bilingual ones graduating from the better universities have a good chance of landing a very good job with a multinational corporation. Then you have the returning emigrants that learn on their own during their years NOB. Just as you, I take pride in my Spanish fluency. In our home each member speaks at least 2 languages fluently but Spanish is what we speak among ourselves. If people on the street are capable of clearly expressing themselves in English, that is fine with me. If they struggle, I simply tell them that we can communicate more clearly in Spanish. I let them choose.
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Hola Clete! Wow, everyone in your family speaks two languages fluently! Kudos! As for the Tapatíos knowing English, that’s a good insight. Though hearing good English spoken here in Ajijic isn’t surprising, it did surprise me the few times it happened (unsolicitedly) in Guadalajara. Now I know why. Saludos and thanks for your comment.
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It does occur to me that one problem for elderly people learning to speak Spanish is hearing issues. I was a Spanish major for awhile, but my ear just couldn’t readily distinguish the sounds that I hadn’t grown up with. That was in College! it must be even more difficult for seniors.
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Hola Christine, You do indeed have a point. If you can’t hear the difference between sounds in Spanish, it will be very hard if not impossible to pronounce them. That said, part of learning a language is ear-training in something called “minimal pairs,” two sounds which are similar but sound different to native speakers. For example, my Danish mother has always had problems with “color” vs. “collar,” a pair that you probably find quite distinct. (Assuming you are a native English speaker.) A minimal pair in Spanish could be “te llamo” vs “te amo.” (I call you vs I love you.) That said, pronunciation in Spanish is a LOT easier than in English, what with only five vowels and a sprinkling of dipthongs. In any case, I think perseverance and practice are the key. Thanks for stopping back! Saludos!
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Kim I just learned a lot from you re “minimal pairs.” I had no idea! (Duh. And I have a hearing disability, so it’s doubly important.) Thank you so much! Also for the heads up re wordreference.com. (“We get by with a little help from our friends…” is the gospel if ever it was written!)
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Hola Barbara! Thanks for the kind words. If you want to learn more about learning a language, read Gabriel Wyner’s “Fluent Forever.” It’s chock-full of methods for learning a language quickly, and it’s a good read to boot. By the way, that’s where I learned about minimal pairs, and that only recently. Saludos!
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Thank you again! I just ordered the book!
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To my eternal shame, I managed to live in Mexico for six years without ever becoming fluent in Spanish. I didn’t live in a gringo infested enclave, either. So there was no excuse other than my own laziness. Fact of the matter was, immersion in the city taught me all the nouns and adjectives I’d ever need and more. I had a grasp of the key verbs, but never enough of the non-key verbs to be able to burst into spontaneous conversation. I got about by myself just fine. I didn’t need Spanish at home, nor at work. And, quite frankly, I still maintain that with regards my Mexican family, the less Spanish I knew the better off I was.
Anyway, I’m English. Just making eye contact with people when out and about was a big no-no. Having an actual conversation with someone? What an absolutely absurd and preposterous notion. Heaven forbid.
In my neighbourhood in the south of CDMX, or DF as it was then, we had a local drunk. A friendly one. He’d show off his English skills to his fellow drunks by engaging me in conversation. Trouble was, he knew just about twenty words, which he’d spurt out in a random nonsensical order. And he called me William for some reason. This went on almost every day for at least five years.
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Hola Gary! Yes, I’ve always regarded you as a somewhat odd case. As you say, you certainly didn’t live in a Gringo enclave. Nor did you have many native English speakers to hang out with, at least as far as I could tell. And you had that one, key ingredient that usually ensures success: an intimate relationship with a native Mexicana, Mrs. P. And still, you somehow managed to escape learning Spanish. Tsk, tsk.
All that said, I’m highly amused by the drunk calling you William every day. It would have been even funnier if he had decided you were Prince William, or Duke William of Coyoacán, or something equally ludicrous.
Anyway, it’s not too late to learn Spanish even now. Saludos and thanks for your comment.
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From time to time, a Spanish speaker will come to the window at work and my Spanish knowledge of buying tickets – something I did regularly – still works just fine. Although I have lost a lot of vocab over the years. I had to look up ‘yesterday’ in a translator, which made me weep a little.
And you’re right, I very rarely hung out with English speakers. Like I say, I had no excuse. Other than laziness. I knew as much Spanish as I needed and settled for that.
But we still have our Mexican retirement plan, Mrs P and I. So really, I must knuckle down and learn the lingo.
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Hola Gary! Wordreference.com, and the app for your cell phone are your best friend. As for your Mexican retirement plan, yes, get cracking on studying. Maybe you can get Mrs. P to only speak Spanish with you one day a week or something. I know you can do it; it’s just a matter of setting your mind to it. Saludos!
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The reason so many Gringos move to Ajijic is specifically because they won’t need to learn Spanish. Here where I live, it’s a very rare day when someone speaks English to me, and I always respond in Spanish. Ajijic and San Miguel are for lazy folks.
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Hola Felipe! Well, no need for Spanish was a big reason to move my mother here, and I’m sure it’s a reason for many. But there’s also a marvelous climate, fairly cheap cost of living, and tons of good, foreign restaurants. And yes, I can’t imagine many folks where you are accosting you in English. Saludos!
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The takeaways: “…the crushing horde of elderly gringos[**] patrolling the streets…” and “…avoid Ajijic like the plague…”.
Si.
P.S. **How do you say “Yikes!” in Spanish?
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Hola Barbara! Haha…”Yikes” can be roughly translated as “!Híjole!” Saludos!
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We went to a restaurant in Ajijic and the English was so bad on the menu they proudly gave us we had to ask for the Spanish menu to find out what they offered. Our Spanish is terrible but after four or five months of immersion it improves. I once asked a Mexican something and he answered back in some language I could not understand. It was only after he repeated it several times that I realized it was English that I was struggling to understand!
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Hola Croft! You might recall I once (in the very early days of this blog) wrote a post about the hardest thing to understand. It’s English, of course. And I’m still continuing my 100% record of not understanding random English things dropped into Spanish conversation by a Mexican. It just never sounds like English when they drop it into the middle of a Spanish sentence. Saludos and thanks for your comment!
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We spent two months last year in Ajijic and Riberas de Pilar. At 66, we didn’t feel old enough, and the gringo-fication was a turn off.
I study Spanish every day at home and will soon start with a tutor as well. Some here in Guadalajara speak English to me; some as way to practice their English and some as a way to speed up commercial transactions. But I never expect it. Exhausting, yes, but also exhilarating to immerse in a different culture through its language!
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Hola Deborah! At 66 you didn’t feel old enough, haha! Thanks for giving me my first chuckle of the day. And kudos to you for being so diligent in studying. I assure you, it will be worth the work. Saludos and thanks for stopping by!
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We stopped in Ajijic in January on our way back home to Monterrey. I couldn’t agree with you more. It’s a bit annoying. We are in Mexico after all and Spanish is the language of the country.
That said, the local Mexican community caters to the ex-pats. Not all have money, but some do come with enough cash to make it worth their time.
I realize you are talking about language here, but talk to some of the locals such as the Walmart workers. They tolerate us, to say the least. On the other hand, I was surprised to see that most local businesses don’t hire or look for bilingual workers which would be a plus from a business standpoint.
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Hola Christopher! I agree, Spanish is or should be the default here. Even to Gringos on the street, I mostly say “Buenos Días” or “Buenas Tardes” if I greet them. Or in stores, I say “con permiso,” if I want to get by. If it becomes clear they don’t speak Spanish, I’ll switch to English. And yes, the feelings about Gringos here are indeed mixed. Yes, they bring a lot of money, but they don’t much try to assimilate, which of course is the subject of this post. Thanks for your comment. Any future comments with the same ID/email should go through without moderation. Saludos!
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It’s funny that most staff in restaurants speak some English in SMA, but when you need to deal with the city or making an appointment at a clinic, the chance of finding someone who can speak even a tiny bit of English is daunting. So I “slog” through my Spanish, which I KNOW is not grammatically correct, but which does eventually get the job done. How many times have I taken Spanish classes, starting 45 years ago, believe it or not, 13 times. The best was at Warren Hardy here in SMA. And, yes, I agree with Jennifer, Mexicans are proud when their English is better then our Spanish. It makes me smile to myself and I ALWAYS compliment them. I practice my Spanish all the time with the taxi drivers who enjoy talking and correcting. They ask where you are from in case (a) they lived there, or (b) they now have family living there. That too is fun to see where the conversation goes – be it in English or Spanish. Usually a little of both.
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Hola Barbara! I admire your stick-to-it-iveness, haha, along with your sheer determination. Here in Ajijic, you can easily find doctors and dentists who speak English, as does my mothers two eye doctors in Guadalajara. Even in the immigration office, the lady there speaks beautiful English, and honestly, I have no idea why many Gringos hire lawyers to deal with them. It’s quite easy. In any case, kudos for keeping on keeping on in Spanish. Saludos and thanks for stopping by.
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I used to feel moderately insuited when a waiter or service person responded to me in English, and then I just got over myself once I realized that the speaker was proud that he or she could respond in English, was trying to impress his coworkers or boss, or was just practicing. And so then, after all these years, I’ve just taken to responding in English, just to play along. There are other opportunities to speak Spanish.Well, I did get a tad testy when a waitress insisting that her pronounciation of hummus was better than mine, telling her that she ought to try speaking English like she’s from this hemisphere and not pretending to be an Arab.
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Hola Ms Shoes, I’m mentally making the same progression you already have. I’m already giving up and responding in English if they answer me in English. The only place where I’d beg to differ is that there aren’t that many places here to speak Spanish, certainly not as many as where you are. Ni modo, I will be in CDMX soon enough once again, where the only people who try to speak English to me are school kids who’ve been given the assignment to find a Gringo and then interview him in English. Usually it turns into an English lesson on my part, and hilarity for all. Saludos and thanks for your comment.
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Well, being an old lady, I’ve probably said this before: I think Ajijic is great because “It is so close to Mexico!” Sure, it’s true that it is entirely an American enclave, but a trip to the raspberry fields west of town or the fish processing plant on the other side of the lake and bingo! you are in Mexico again.
I bet you could live your entire life in Chinatown, San Francisco and never have to eat American food or learn much English.
Your Mom might enjoy taking a ride from Ajijic to Puerto Vallarta in a first class bus.
It’s a (relatively) quick trip from the highlands to the beach and, Wahoo! What a ride!
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Hola Christine! I like that, “Close to Mexico.” Made me laugh. Saludos and thanks for commenting.
PS. Ajijic reminds me of Chinatown in many ways.
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