We crossed the border. Not without complications, but we crossed. Tino and I met up Tuesday morning in downtown Laredo. “I’m wearing a super-green shirt,” I texted him. In fact a fluorescent green so bright it almost hurts your eyes to look at it. I figured there was no way he could miss me in that shirt. Besides, green flatters me. I drove to his bank where we agreed to meet, parked the truck, and took a stroll around. Sure enough, he spied me through the window of the bank, and fifteen minutes later we met face-to-face.
Meeting Tino felt like meeting up with an old friend. I’ve been reading his blog for a good half-year now, and he has read mine, and we’ve both left comments on each other’s blog. I’ve also read his comments around the blogosphere. We’ve also exchanged a number of emails and chatted via Skype. Somehow we just clicked, and even before we had met in person, we had shared experiences, told tales of old lovers, and wins and losses in the battle of life. But meeting him in person was just that much better. We hit it off right away.
It was during a Skype chat about three weeks ago that Tino had suggested that we meet in Laredo. He had some business to handle stateside, and didn’t really relish driving the highway alone. Nor was he overly wild about taking the bus both ways. For me, I was beyond thrilled that someone would cross the border with me and traverse what I regarded as the most iffy stretch of highway, that between Laredo and Monterrey. Tino also wanted to run some errands, and take advantage of my truck. So we went shopping, where Tino bought a pair of sunglasses, and I bought a pair of jeans. Then off to Wal*Mart, where Tino bought a bike, and I stocked up on some essentials like sunscreen and toothpaste. Despite the mundane nature of our shopping we had fun, telling stories and jokes the whole way.
Then we had lunch, and decided to make a run for the border. Call me a paranoid gringo, but I was very reluctant to cross the border from downtown Laredo into downtown Nuevo Laredo. “We have to go to the World Trade Bridge,” I insisted to Tino, who was agreeable to my plan. After a couple of wrong turns, missed freeway exits, and backtracking, we arrived at the World Trade Bridge, and soon found ourselves trapped, immobile amongst several dozen 18-wheelers. There was no going forward and there was no turning back. We began to suspect that we were somewhere we shouldn’t be. I started to get very nervous. “What if we somehow got into the wrong lane, go the the wrong place, and then get arrested?” I wondered. I turned off the motor.
“Do you mind if I just step out and look around and see what’s up?” Tino asked.
“No. Please do,” I said. “Just keep in mind that if the traffic starts to move, I’m going to have to move too. I don’t want to lose you.”
Tino disappeared into the thicket of trucks, leaving me to worry alone. Shortly thereafter, the traffic began to move and I started to panic. I rolled down the window and shouted, “Tino!!!!!” Fortunately he was on his way back, and the traffic stopped once more.
“We’re in a commercial-only crossing. We’re going to have to go back,” he reported as he got back into the truck.
Sure enough, we passed a point where the lanes opened up, and an official appeared, beckoned us to a gate that would allow us to make a U-Turn, and then we were free. But still in the USA, too. My initial attempt to cross the border had been quickly foiled.
“I guess we have no choice but to cross in downtown Laredo into Nuevo Laredo,” I said.
“I don’t think it’s going to be a problem,” he replied.
So we headed back to where we had come from, drove south on highway 35, and soon enough came to the Mexico border crossing. As it turns out, leaving the USA isn’t that easy. You have to pass through US Border Patrol first. We pulled up to the officer, stopped and rolled down the window.
“Could you please move your truck over there?” The officer pointed to the side of the road. I moved the truck, wondering what he wanted. “Please take all your valuables with you, then unload your truck and put everything over there,” he said, beckoning toward a table a good 25 feet away. “What’s going on?” I wondered.
More questions. “What’s the purpose of your trip? How do you two know each other? Are you carrying any arms or ammunition?” We answered with the truth, one crazy gringo doing a road trip in Mexico, accompanied by his blogger friend for the first bit. Unarmed, of course, save for our rapier wits. We hauled everything out of the truck, save for the bicycle, and a couple of foam pads, which the agent agreed could be searched in situ.
Then the agent began what has since become the single most thorough search I have ever undergone at a border crossing. He opened the hood of the truck, and searched the engine compartment diligently. He used a mirror to look under all sides of the truck. He tapped various panels with his fingers. Then he looked through the entire cab, checking the obvious places like the glove box, and the not-so-obvious places like behind the seat and under the floor mats. Then he started to go through our things. I had a telephoto lens wrapped in a thick sock, and he tried to go through the toe part until I suggested he look at the other end. Then he went through my suitcase very carefully. Finally, he wanted to go through my backpack, which I showed him in order of all fifteen pockets. Then he told us to sit down again, and double-checked the back of the truck. Finally about 45 minutes later, he said we were free to go.
Thoroughly unnerved, we re-packed the truck in order to drive the 100 feet into Mexico. As we slowly crossed the bridge, I wondered if this was going to replay once again on the other side of the border. But in Mexico, they employ the same system at land borders as they do at the airport. You pull your vehicle up to a sensor like those used by traffic lights. Then a random number generator decides whether you get a green light (free to pass) or a red light (must be physically inspected). We got a green light. “Whew!” I thought. So we drove forward into what appeared to be our lane. When we got there and told the agent that we had received a green light, he said that we should have driven on through the right-hand lane. Now that we were in his lane, he’d have to inspect us, as everything was being videoed, and he’d get in trouble if he didn’t inspect us. “Oh God!” I thought. But this guy was cool. He took a quick look at my backpack, and did a very cursory inspection of the camper, and then let us go. “Bienvenidos a México!”
After that we had to get the car importation permit, and my personal visa. After a couple of wrong turns, we found the combined customs and Banjercito office where we could take care of everything. There were only about three other people there, and everything went incredibly smoothly. Though I had made triplicate copies of my car registration, title, and insurance papers, I had neglected to make a copy of my passport. But the woman at the window made a copy, charged me 7 pesos, and sent me on to the next window. In total, this whole process of getting my visa and the car importation permit took about a half hour, and all the Mexican officials were incredibly nice. And they didn’t even want to see my insurance papers. Through the whole process, Tino provided plenty of moral support. Though my Spanish is well up to handling all this bureaucracy, it was nice to have him there.
After that, we bought some gas (even though I still had 3/4 of a tank) and then hit the road. The drive was completely uneventful, and Tino and I had a great time chatting during the trip. Once in Monterrey, we met up with Tino’s partner, and went for an authentic Monterrey meal. I had Cabrito al Pastor, (goat) which was incredibly tasty. And then, the big, wonderful surprise.
“Why don’t you stay with us?” Tino asked. I was astonished and taken aback by this generosity.
“Are you sure? It was a major favor for you to cross the border with me. I really don’t want to inconvenience you.”
“No, it’s no inconvenience,” he said. “I’ve taken tomorrow off so I can show you around.”
“You’re sure? I really really don’t want you to be inconvenienced at all.”
“Yes, I’m sure. We’d love to have you,” he replied.
And so I spent the night at Tino’s house, in his guest room, feeling like about the luckiest person in the world. The Mexican portion of my trip was off to a wonderfully good start.
Jump to the next post from this trip.
* Lyrics courtesy of Madonna.
Please note that this post is about two days behind actual events.
Felipe Zapata said:
Seven pesos for a photocopy is very high. Where I live it costs from one to two pesos, but perhaps they copied every page of your passport. As for insurance, nobody ever asks for insurance in Mexico … until you have an accident. Then you darn sure better have it.
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Kim G said:
Seven pesos is indeed an expensive price to pay for a copy, but it MASSIVELY beats being sent away to find somewhere else to get the copy, which I think might have been the policy in former, less-enlightened times.
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Steve Cotton said:
And now you know why “Lukeville” is a magic word to me. But it was not one of your options. When I was stationed at Laredo, the US border guards were nearly as picky.
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Kim G said:
I never expected that I’d have problems in my own country, LOL. But let’s just say that I’ve been inspected a few times since, SOB, though not nearly as aggressively. Saludos!
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Tancho said:
Glad you made it into a sane country finally, everything now should be pretty smooth sailing, The BP is simply proving to all US citizens how they must justify their jobs by hassling citizens by doing totally useless actions. It’s not their job to keep stuff out of Mexico; too bad they don’t take their energy in keeping the border secure on the US side of the map.
Enjoy the rest of your road trip, stay safe.
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Kim G said:
Hola Tancho. I think you’re right. A good deal of job-justification is going on. I just wonder why they picked us. Thanks for stopping by.
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Felipe Zapata said:
You wonder why they picked on you? Two suspicious dudes in a rattletrap pickup (a clever but obvious diversion that backfired)? I would have wondered if they had not pulled you aside and turned you every which way but loose.
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Kim G said:
Well, one thing I forgot to mention in the post is that the guy inspecting the truck came across a Wal*Mart receipt in one of my bags, picked it up, and read it for so long that I can only imagine that he read every single line item, checked the store location (Chattanooga), and date (a few days prior). Frankly, that level of inspection struck me as excessive, but I suppose you can still buy guns & ammo at some Wal*Marts.
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NORM said:
I was driving through a local farm town a year ago when the local policeman pulled me over for a burned out licence plate light. My papers were in order and I should have been on my way but no. Another policeman shows up with his dog and the three of them decide to search my work van. All the saws, drills, toolbags, clothing, ice chests, and trash were dragged out of my van. All the while, I’m standing in cuffs along side the road in my shirtsleeves in 30 degree weather. There was nothing illegal to be found so they gave me a lecture on keeping my van neater and left me to put all my stuff back together. Our war on drugs has shredded our constitution. When a cop can tell you that the dog told him there was something in your car and it constitutes probable cause, we as a society are well on our way to a real loss of freedom. Those who would say”if you have nothing to hide’ can put it where the sun does not shine. My concern is real for both of our shakedowns.
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Kim G said:
Hey Norm. Wow! That’s INSANE. They cuffed you? Good Lord! I’m at a loss as to what to say, except that that’s outrageous. And for God’s sake! How you keep your tools and van is totally YOUR business. You’re not there to make their jobs easier. They need to remember they work for us. Sheesh! I’m sorry this happened to you. By the way, I’m 100% with you on the folks who say they have nothing to hide. That’s not the point, is it? Saludos.
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John Calypso said:
I have heard other stories of an inspection to leave the U.S. I always thought that was odd as it has never happened to us – even to the point of finding it hard to believe. WHO ARE THESE PEOPLE! I can only guess that the fact that you and Tino just met was enough to send those bastards into total suspicious mode.
Crossing over at Brownsville we have never had a U.S. inspection Or any other crossing point we have encountered – returning from Mexico the U.S. border patrol has always been the more difficult of the sides – usually stern and approaching rude interplay – grrr. Once during a particularly difficult (thorough) inspection I finally reminded the officers that I was a Vietnam vet; having fought for their country (not voluntarily) to ensure FREEDOM and “the American way.” – and by-gawd I better get a little respect here or there is going to be a problem blah blah blah – they actually lightened up and let me pass (I had a great laugh later over my pulling rank on those idiots).
Well you are back in God’s Country amigo – have a great time!
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Kim G said:
John: I’ve been inspected twice today by Federales, but they are about a million percent nicer than the US folks, I’m sorry to say. Somehow the US Government/Border Patrol has confused rudeness with effectiveness. I’m glad you pulled rank on those turkeys. They need a reminder of who they work for and why. Saludos.
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Felipe Zapata said:
You might want to consider the relatively slight detour up to the Columbia crossing north of Laredo if you make it back alive. You completely detour around Laredo. I’ve always found it to be a piece of cake. You need to always stay below the speed limit in that area, however. It’s a speed trap on the Mexican side. But otherwise a good option.
“Green flatters me.” Sometimes you are sooo gay!
Carry on, intrepid traveler! I suspect you are going to have fun getting out of Monterrey on your own, streetwise, I mean.
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Kim G said:
I will take your advice. Part of our problem on exit is that I confused the World Trade Bridge with the Columbia Crossing, which we now all know is commercial-only, LOL. As for speeds, while I’m a bit of a lead foot in the US, particularly in the SLK, here in Mexico the combination of highly reasonable speed limits, the fact that I’m in the truck, and the fact that I don’t want any trouble has kept me right at or slightly below the speed limit. I intend to keep this my policy. As for the green comment, I am who I am. Saludos!
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Kim G said:
P.S. Tino basically drove to the freeway with me following him, and so it was a snap getting out of Monterrey. Otherwise, it would have been an entirely different story. I left at rush hour, and let me tell you, it makes Boston (probably the worst city for traffic in some senses) look tame by comparison.
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Christine Dubois said:
My legal soul is offended by that search. Searches should be reasonably related to some legitimate governmental purpose and, like Francisco, I don’t see it since you are leaving Dodge.
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Kim G said:
I didn’t want to say anything, but the whole time was thinking, “I don’t think it’s the US taxpayer’s job to keep guns out of Mexico. Particularly when there’s an inspection point run by Mexicans 100 feet hence. And I have no idea why they picked us out of the crowd. But I’m beginning to think I look far more dangerous than I ever imagined. Saludos!
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brucekelley said:
Great story Kim! And remind me to never cross the border by car/truck. BTW: That has been our experience every crossing, that the Mx officials are far kinder than the US. What is with that?
Keep up the good work.
Cheers!
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Kim G said:
Hi Bruce! Thanks for the kind words. These stories are kind of writing themselves. In this case, I wish the crossing had been more boring, but even with the inspection it didn’t take TOO long. Saludos!
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William said:
It had to have been a terribly stressful, drawn-out experience, but you made it! You’re now in Mexico! Enjoy your stay in Monterrey and your visit with Tino. Glad that you had him with you to make the border ordeal less nerve-wracking.
Saludos to you both!
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Kim G said:
Hi Bill. Yeah, the inspection on the US side was very nerve wracking, probably the most nerve wracking part of the whole crossing. Thank God Tino was with me. While we were waiting for the guy to do his stuff, I asked Tino if he regretted coming with me. But he answered with a resounding “No!” He’s a great guy, and we had a terrific time in Monterrey. Saludos! (PS I sent him your regards.)
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William said:
I’ve never had any major problems with customs in or out of Mexico, but then I’ve never driven across the border. My first time in Mexico, when I was a student down there, the U.S. customs agent had me open one of my bags because he said it smelled like apples. I never knew that dirty underwear smelled like apples!
The first time I took my father down to Mexico, upon our return the customs agent asked for our passports (this was back in the day when you didn’t need a passport to travel to Mexico). I guess we must have acquired quite a tan while we were down there.
The scariest split second was when I went to Mexico to attend a friend’s wedding. After passing through customs in Mexico City, I was approached by a federal policeman. It turned out he was the groom’s cousin, and he was waiting to give me a ride from the airport!
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Kim G said:
Bill: that “scariest split second” anecdote is hysterical, LOL!
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Barbara said:
“We get by with a little help from our friends…”. The gospel if ever it was written.
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Kim G said:
Barbara, you are 100% correct. In another discussion today, I mentioned that I had friends in various places. The guy said, You have a lot of friends,” in a kind of skeptical way. I just replied, “I am very fortunate.” And I truly believe that. Thanks for stopping by!
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Dave said:
Kim, wow…. what a serendipitious adventure. You are lucky!!! And with your guardian angel, Tino… LOVE the “Madonna lyrics”… just reading inspires me more and more. to get out of town and just drive and GO!!
Top down and just go!! Gettin the Miata into the shop for her 120K mile service.
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Kim G said:
Hey Dave! Thanks for stopping by. Sorry I’m no longer reachable by phone. But so far, this is an amazing adventure. At this moment, I’m eating lunch in a fairly posh hotel in Zacatecas, feeling very grateful to be here. Saludos y abrazos!
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Francisco said:
The same thing happened when I crossed the border in 2005. I couldn’t understand why the U.S. Customs were so concerned that I was leaving the U.S.A.
It makes me wonder how all the guns get into Mexico from the U.S.
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Felipe Zapata said:
That’s easy. It is Obama’s boys who ship the guns south. They don’t get frisked. They just flash their badges.
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Kim G said:
Hey Francisco. Yes, it made me wonder too. Also today I’ve been checked by two separate Federal Police too. So I’m beginning to think that the way the guns get here is that lots of people get paid off along the way. How else? Saludos.
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Christine said:
Now that I think of it, the police here in Sonoma County, California, tend to stop cars and trucks with two young men driving without girlfriends, family, or pets. There is something about two guys traveling together that make the local cops here suspect they are transporting marijuana. Especially if it is an expensive truck or car. Who knows maybe you fit some police profile?
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Kim G said:
I wish I knew what it was. We don’t look like mariguanos, and the truck is old, but in pretty nice condition. Maybe Tino should have brought one of his dogs, LOL. They’re not very scary, though. Too small.
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Christine said:
Of course, it could be that shirt. For all you know, El Chapo had one just like it!
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Kim G said:
LOL!!!
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Lee said:
I know what it’s like to meet long-standing blog friends in person and so far, so great! I’ve build a whole network of support and friendship made up of people I first encountered in the comments section of my blog.
It’s nervous-making when you decide to meet up with an online pal. You often wonder if the person will be as personable in person, and I’m sure sometimes they just aren’t. I’ve been lucky. It’s magic when a person holds up to their online persona.
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Kim G said:
Lee, I’ve met a number of the commenters here via their blogs, but Tino is the second I’ve met face-to-face from my blog. But, as I wrote, we exchanged a lot of emails and chatted on skype too, so I felt pretty confident we’d hit it off. Fortunately, I was right. Actually, he’s even nicer in person. Saludos.
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ladyofthecakes said:
What a rigmarole! But you made it 🙂
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Kim G said:
A rigmarole with excessively ornate frosting! Saludos.
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ladyofthecakes said:
Save one for me, LOL 😉
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