Dateline: Starbucks, Zona Rosa, DF
I made it. I’m finally in Mexico City. Not without a few errors and lessons learned though. Since I’m ostensibly going to be on the road for a good, long time, I bought an enormous suitcase. As the savvier travelers amongst you know, the airlines don’t look kindly on any suitcase that weighs more than 50 pounds. Since I monitor my boyish svelteness via mirror, I don’t own a bathroom scale. And because I’m likely on the road for at least a few months I packed generously. And packed. And packed, thinking I’d need LOTS of stuff. What if I get invited to a luau? Better pack that Hawaiian shirt. Fortunately I had looked up the airline rules, so I was aware of the fact that for 50 Lbs or less, I’d get a free checked bag. Go over that limit by even an ounce, though, and it’d set me back $100 USD. So I decided to also include a reusable grocery bag from Sam’s Club figuring I’d be able to offload some of the extra stuff if I went over. But I didn’t really believe my suitcase weighed more than 50 lbs. My housemate disagreed, but I wasn’t convinced.
When I got to the airport, housemate was immediately vindicated. My bag weighed 62.5 lbs. Oops! Fortunately I had arrived with uncharacteristic earliness, so I had time to offload. Out came the Sam’s bag, and I started putting heavier stuff into it. Fortunately, it all fit comfortably, and I was all set with one 50lb checked bag, a knapsack and my stylish Sam’s bag to carry on.
And I learned an interesting lesson in the process. As you know, the airlines’ business model now revolves around charging you for things that were formerly included, like checked luggage. At least when you want to check it. If they want it checked, well then it’s a different story. But of course, when this happens, they aren’t typically bags you want to check. And you aren’t ready to check them, and they usually tell you just as you’re walking down the jetway. “Oops…our overhead bins are now full. We’ll gladly check your carry-ons for free.” This is code for “You ain’t goin’ nowhere, Bud, unless you hand over that carry-on. Pronto!”
This happened on both legs of my Mexico flight, but it turns out my grocery bag became a secret weapon, despite the fact that I was in the last boarding group on both flights. See, because it has an open top, my Sam’s bag is not really “check-able.” Right? The minute it hits a conveyor belt, it tips over and all the stuff falls out. As I went down the jetways, I could see the wheels turning in the gate agents’ minds as they looked at my bag: “Nope, we can’t really get him to check that one, and the back pack will fit under the seat.”
So I was spared the involuntary bag check. Of course this came at the price of traveling in perhaps the tackiest fashion possible, with various bits of personal goods visible to my fellow travelers. But you know what? I’ve really given up worrying about that kind of thing. This is one of the good things about getting older.
As for the other aspects of the trip, they’re all more or less good. I’m a little annoyed at Expedia, though. After hunting around for a hotel and being surprised that hotel rates don’t seem to reflect the collapse in the Peso, I decided to live dangerously and take one of their special “mystery deals,” where you don’t know the name or precise location of the hotel until you’re already committed. But the ostensible payoff is that you get “up to a 40% discount!” Immediately after I booked my hotel, I went to Google maps to find the location and right there on Google maps was a rack rate for said hotel that was about three dollars per night less than my “super special mystery deal.” Needless to say, I was not amused. Nor am I likely to ever repeat that ridiculous experience. Frankly I feel like what Expedia did was borderline fraud. And stupid to boot since I’ve been a very loyal user and travel ALL THE FRIGGIN TIME! Why piss off one of your best customers? That said, the hotel is surprisingly nice, recently remodeled, and still a good deal, even if the selling of it was a smidgen dodgy. By the way, I only booked 2 nights as the rates seemed high. And I don’t know if it’s because the market is really different for the next few days, but now that I’m here, the posted hotel rates are *much* lower on Expedia than they were when I was checking from Boston. Hmmmm……
I’m now sitting in a Starbucks on Calle Genova in the Zona Rosa, a stone’s throw from the Glorieta Insurgentes plotting my next move. For all the bravado of my last post about the one-way ticket, I’m surprisingly unsure as to what my next move will be. But the trip has already paid off as I narrowly escaped a snowstorm, and there are surely plenty behind that one.
Things with Edgar have taken a turn for the I’m-not-sure-what. Two weeks ago, he was dying to see me, wanted me to stay with him in Tehuacán for more than a few days, and was eager for help with his business. Last week he messaged me: “we need to talk on Skype.” Via Skype, I learned that he has a budding boyfriend and for that reason it’d be weird for me to go to Tehuacán. That was OK with me, and I repeated that we weren’t boyfriends, as he knew, and that he was too young for me anyway. (Something we had already discussed before.) So the plan became that he was going to meet me Sunday in DF. He’d stay the night with me, buy inventory the next day, and then return to Tehuacán.
Just before I left, that too changed. I messaged him Monday to confirm the plan. He replied promptly: “It turns out that Sunday is my brother’s birthday and I can’t come to DF. Besides, I’m a little short of cash anyway. I still really want to see you, but maybe before you go back to Boston.”
“Whatever,” I’m thinking. I really have a low tolerance for flakiness. And without going into the tedious details, yes, he feels a bit guilty and did apologize. But I’m still harrumphed, feeling a bit like he had effectively been trying to “keep me in reserve” as a sort of backup boyfriend, or I-don’t-know-what. And that’s the crux of it, isn’t it? If you’re going to be friends with someone, you share your life. And if you’re constantly hiding a bunch of stuff, well, to me at least, that’s not how you treat friends. I’m not getting worked up about this, but simply taking it as new information and acting accordingly.
But tonight I’m going to dinner with my friend Julio, who owns the most fabulous mid-century furniture store in Mexico City. And then over the weekend I meet up with Bill of Travels of a Retired Teacher. And hopefully get to meet the famous Alejandro. After that? I’m surprisingly undecided. As you know, I’ve fantasized long and hard about making a go of living in Zacatecas. But one side of me says, “hey, Kim. Just rent a place in DF. Spend the winter here, and then see how it goes.” The other side says, “Go to Zacatecas. You already know you could live in DF; Zacatecas would be something new, and even if you don’t settle there, a few months could be an amazing experience.” Hopefully I can make up my mind in the next week. Meanwhile I’m certainly happy to be back in Mexico City once more, surrounded by the special enchantment of this aluringly crazy, frenetic, and never-boring megalopolis.
Saludos!
Unconfirmed Bachelorette said:
Hola, Kim! I am catching up and hope by the time I finish, I’ll find you in Zacatecas. Re Edgar, I echo your sentiments: Whatever! No matter. Mexico is your oyster!
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Kim G said:
Hola Ella! What can I say about Edgar? If nothing else, he saved me a couple of weeks of unpaid labor, so I suppose I should be grateful. But I really feel like I could help him get his business running a lot better. And if that happened, I’d be happier knowing he was living a better life. But you know the old saying: you can lead a horse to water…
Saludos!
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Tancho said:
The airlines finally made my decision to either drive or use one of the 1st class bus systems. Remembering how it was to fly in the days when flying was not a Greyhound in the sky, or actually a worse class bus system, I prefer not to get stressed out by figuring out alternatives. Charging for overages and or a bottle of water seems just a tad over the top.
I am surprised as you are a seasoned traveler that you decided to schlep one of those huge bags around when in actuality you never use all the stuff your eyes pack for you.
Also because of the price of clothes you could buy and toss as you travel from hot to cold areas in the country.
I’ll bet you that you will stow that large trunk of a suitcase before your trip ends somewhere.
Enjoy your travels, you are l lucky since traveling alone is nice because you don’t have to worry about making anyone traveling with you happy or catering to their indecision. All you need to do is enjoy YOURSELF.
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Kim G said:
Hola Tancho! Yeah, I think you’re right about the suitcase. I was (overly) worried about having enough clothes between laundry visits, and brought other things I might have left behind (like a coffee maker). But if I do settle in somewhere, I’m going to be happy to have all that stuff. As for buying clothes, that’s hard for me in Mexico. Short sleeved shirts or shorts are plentiful. But I seriously doubt I could ever find a pair of pants here as it’s not exactly easy in the USA. Same for long-sleeved shirts. Tall and skinny is not a common size in Mexico. Saludos and thanks for stopping by!
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Nancy Dardarian said:
We love Air BnB too, have only had one bad experience out of many. I think you’ll be sorry you have that huge suitcase – a smaller one and a backpack or carryon are so much easier especially when taxis are small or having to trundle it on narrow sidewalks.
Have fun and come to Maz while you’re out and about. No hotel booking needed.
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Kim G said:
Hola Nancy! You are already 100% right about the need to pack light. When I got to my hotel, it was already clear that I had brought too much. Oh well. I guess it’ll strengthen my back. Or something. And it sounds like everyone has had wonderful experiences with airbnb. I guess I will have to check it out. Saludos and thanks for stopping by!
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Steve Cotton said:
I may need to meet your friend Julio. His catalog has several items that would look great in the house without a name.
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Kim G said:
Hola Steve! I’m delighted to read your comment. I had thought of you specifically and the house with no name when I mentioned Julio’s store. He ships worldwide, so Melaque shouldn’t be a problem. Saludos!
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johncalypso said:
Kim – your airline stories reinforce my commitment to driving (and if I cannot drive I do not go). No 50 lb. rule in the Jetta, although we are supposed to keep no more than 70 pounds in the roof carrier (yeah sure 😉 Welcome back amigo! If you are looking for beach – Puerto is here waiting with open arms!
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Kim G said:
Hola John! It was very hard to decide between driving and flying. Aside from the airline BS (everyone would have been better off if they had just accepted the 62.5 lb suitcase), it’s a lot easier to get off the beaten track in a car. But the other side of that story is that if I had taken the truck (which recently developed some intermittent problem), I’d still only be in Chattanooga or somewhere near there. But hauling my suitcase around Mexico will definitely be more of a challenge by bus. Saludos and thanks for stopping by!
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Don Cuevas said:
I recently signed up with Booking.com and downloaded their app for iPad. So far, I really like the way it works (especially the app), but I haven’t booked any hotels with them yet.
For our next Mexico City visit, I am considering the Hotel Marbella, on Calle Frontera, and Calle San Luis Potosí, Colonia Roma, close to Avenida Cuauhtémoc.
We had stayed many times at the Hotel Embassy, on Calle Puebla, Roma Norte,(cheap but generally acceptable, great location for us.) but the last few times, we’d make an email reservation with stated preference for a specific type of room. The request was always confirmed. But on arrival, we’d find that our preferred rooms were not available, and we would end up in a just-slightly-larger-than-a-broom-closet room, with sometimes dysfunctional wifi.
So it’s on to other lodging, albeit at somewhat higher prices. A typical room at the Embassy for two was $390 pesos. A double room at the Marbella is $800. It’s a price I’m willing to pay for greater comfort. Still cheaper than the Hotel Stanza, a nice, very well located hotel in Col. Roma, where we have stayed a few times (thrice with air miles points) but with rates starting at $1,190 for a sencilla or a doble.
Saludos,
Don Cuevas
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Kim G said:
Hola Don Cuevas! Thanks for the hotel reviews. Indeed, wifi is the bane of many an inn, notably the Best Western in your fair burg. I wish the various booking services would have a specific rating question for that, but they seem clueless in that regard. During my road trip, I’d ask to see the room, then whip out my phone and test the wifi. That ruled out many a room and/or hotel. Here in DF the situation is a little better than in many other parts, but it’s still frustrating to have slow connections. Saludos and thanks for stopping by.
PS. I had found a great deal in the Hotel Metropol more or less behind the Sears near Bellas Artes, but they’ve doubled their rates so it’s not nearly as compelling now.
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LaurieLaGringa said:
Hola Kim! Enjoy your new adventures. As someone else said, it is like a telenovela, but who cares? It’s YOUR telenovela!
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Kim G said:
Hola Laurie! I LOVE being the star of my own telenovela. And more plot twists are sure to arrive. I just had dinner with a dear, Mexican friend and he had many words of wisdom for me that I’ll have to spend some time absorbing. Saludos and thanks for stopping by.
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norm said:
I pay the quoted price the first night off the plane than bargain from there, I shoot for half off to start and walk if it is less than 25% off. Now, if it is busy, I suck it up and pay the freight.
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Kim G said:
Hola Norm! It sounds like we have a very similar modus operandi. Except in DF it’s hard to negotiate and much easier to simply find a cheaper place. I’m working on the latter now. Frankly, there are plenty of people who don’t drive such a hard bargain, which surprises me. Saludos y gracias por comentar.
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Al and Stew said:
We’ve had the same experience with Expedia and those sites that are supposed to save you money. From what we can tell, hotels have gotten fed up with paying fees to those travel websites, so now they are offering similar or better prices if you deal with them directly. BTW if the weather is as gray and clammy in DF as it is in San Miguel, you might as well head for the beach. Tulum is not a bad place, though probably not cheap.
a&s
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Kim G said:
Hola Al & Stew!
It’s interesting you’ve had the same kind of “bargain” experience online. I’ve had good luck with Priceline’s “Name Your Own Price,” though it does require some online legwork before you can get the best deals. But I just checked with the desk here now, and they want slightly more for additional nights than I already paid, even dealing directly. So color me confused. But there are some great deals at other places, so I’m off to greener pastures tomorrow night. And yes, it’s cool and lightly rainy here. This was caused by my purposefully leaving my umbrella at home. Saludos and thanks for stopping by!
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Mani (A New Life Wandering) said:
Welcome back to DF! (even though I’m not there, part of me always is). I hope all your endeavours and adventures pay off. Last time I was there I didn’t have any tacos al pastor, so maybe you can have one for me 🙂
I used to use expedia a lot too, but I had a bad experience with them too when booking a flight.
Have you tried Airbnb yet? Ever since I tried it, I haven’t booked a hotel. If you haven’t used it yet, you can get $20 of credit with this link: http://www.airbnb.com/c/mstout8?s=8 I’m sure Mexico has a ton of options.
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Kim G said:
Hola Mani! Sheesh, you sure are asking a lot if you want me to eat a taco al pastor for you, hahaha. But I think I can manage. Actually I think I can manage “con gusto!” As for airbnb, I haven’t used it. My sense is that it’s not good for those of us who reserve at the last minute. But that said, I really should try. Thanks so much for the coupon. Saludos!
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Mani (A New Life Wandering) said:
Oh! My husband and I are total last minute people! In fact many places have a feature called: “instant book” which don’t require approval from the host before booking unlike the rest.
And I just had an intense workout so that taco (or two or three) would be wonderful right now. 😉 Buenas noches!
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Kim G said:
Hola Mani, Wow! Thanks for the advice on last minute booking. I’ll definitely have to check it out. And rest assured, I will most definitely eat that taco pastor for you, and also be sure to spread some love around this fabulous city which you once called home. Saludos y gracias por tus buenos comentarios.
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Felipe Zapata said:
AirBnB is the new black. Hotels are so yesterday. Yes, you can book AirBnB at the last moment. Just have to find a listing with an opening. My downtown casita is on AirBnB and we don’t get tenants any other way. It’s a great service. It’s to hotels what Uber is to cabs.
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Kim G said:
Hola Felipe! I guess I’ll have to give airbnb a try. It’s interesting you use it as I thought you had ruled out renting to total strangers. I’d love to know how your experiences have gone. Saludos and thanks for stopping by.
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William said:
Bienvenido al D.F., Kim. Whatever occurs with Edgar, and whether you head off to Zacatecas or not, I am sure that you are going to have a great time! I love your banner picture of the Juárez Monument. From the picture of the Zócalo, it looks as if it was raining there. Whenever I go to D.F. I give Alejandro orders to tell the rain gods to hold off. It usually works, so, knock on wood, we will have good weather! (But with “el Niño, who knows?) I look forward to seeing you soon!
Un fuerte abrazo,
Bill
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Kim G said:
Hola Bill! Though it is indeed raining, it’s fortunately not much. As for the Zocalo shot, it’s an oldie but a goodie. As you know, it’s a rare day when the Zocalo isn’t full of tents, fairs, demonstrations, or whatever. And thanks for the kind words on the banner shot. It’s another one from the archives, but I felt it was iconic enough to make a good banner, at least while I’m here. Saludos and I look forward to seeing you.
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Christine Dubois said:
Don’t you want to spend ANY time at the beach? Tulum, for example, has been calling to me because it is actually raining in California. Also, it won’t be long before there are tons of whales in Banderas Bay off Puerto Vallarta and they are ever so cool. No?
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Kim G said:
Hola Christine! I am thinking of doing a few days at the beach, but the truth is that I burn fairly easily so even when on the coast I don’t get to the beach for more than a couple of hours, and those typically after 4:00PM. But I do get the attraction, and fairly fresh off of 3 weeks in San Fran with all it’s rain, I totally hear you. Saludos and thanks for stopping by.
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ladyofthecakes said:
You’ve been amazingly productive in that Starbucks! Those airlines. I also had to re-pack my check-in bag a couple of days ago. With the self-check in, the belt just stops and won’t move the bag until you’ve got it to under the “legal” limit. One day, they will do that with people! Luckily, it’s so much easier to remove several pounds of mum’s Christmas baking from my bag than from my hips. Sigh.
Look forward to keeping up with your adventures over the next few months 🙂
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Kim G said:
Hola Simone! After I finally got my computer rebooted, I did manage to get a lot done in that Starbucks. As for the bag, I’m already starting to wonder how I will deal with the return. If nothing else, I always like to bring back several kg of coffee. But somehow I’ll manage. Saludos and thanks for commenting!
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ladyofthecakes said:
Just send some of it back in packages. It’s just stuff. It can be sorted 🙂
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Kim G said:
We’ll see. There’s some stuff for Edgar, if I ever get to see him. But I can easily ship that from here. And other heavy things like contact lens solution will be run down. So it’ll all sort itself out. Saludos!
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florentinogutierrezr said:
Hello again!!!!!
The most incredible things happen. Early this morning I was thinking about you and trying to remember: when did he say he’d come to DF? Then a few minutes ago I was checking my own blog and my eyes caught a glimpse of your last post. I clicked on another blog and at the same time my cellphone let me know there was a new email: a notification that you had just posted this!!!!! Friends have a secret radar that tells them when another friend is near. It’s good to hear that you ran away from the snowfalls and are treating yourself to tropical temperatures and the never-boring life in Mexico.
I looked up the word “flakiness” and I think you are talking about people who can’t seem to keep promises, right? I hate that too, but unfortunately this is very common, especially here where we have a tendency to get around things and not talk straight. I suppose the new friend changes all the plot in the telenovela… but I’m sure you’ll easily adapt to the new scenario. Let’s keep in touch, bienvenido de nuevo.
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Kim G said:
Hola Tino! I’ve been meaning to send you a “WhatsApp,” but your comment on my post beat me to it. As for Edgar, he means well and has been sending me nice messages here for the last couple of days. I’m sure we’ll get together soon enough. Meanwhile, I truly am “a free man in Paris,” to borrow a phrase from Joni Mitchell. And definitely “unfettered and alive” to boot. Adventures await. Saludos y un fuerte abrazo!
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D L said:
Kim,
You are off on another fabulous adventure.
SPREAD YOUR WINGS AND FLY EFFORTLESSLY.
YOU have the luxury to stay in Mexico City, Zacatecas, and any where else that your shoes take you to…. Now, I believe life doesn’t get any better than that.
As for me my shoes are pointing across the Pacific. Found an incredible deal which I cannot pass up. Possibly, when you have your fill of Mexico, you’ll want to change the venue and hook up with me. More details coming by E…
Missing you!
Con Mucho Amor. …. dL
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Kim G said:
Hola DL! Wow, I’m eager to hear about your coming adventure across the Pacific. As you know, I’d love to go to Thailand some day. The people are supposed to be wonderful, the food fantastic, and there are lots of interesting sights to see. Send me an email; now I’m curious. Saludos and thanks for commenting.
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